Question about 1988 Nissan Sentra 2 Door

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1988 nissan sentra air conditioner. Electical problem

No power to the switch inside the car. Engine condenser fan won't turn on. All the fuses are intact. The systems pressure is at perfect levels. Before This happened I was working inside the car. Working on the dashboard. Not 100% sure using the right wire for the switch, but there are no other wires that fit it. Something is disconnected somewhere or there is a short. Last I was also working on the cooling system and antifreeze spilled on the condenser and fan area. The inside switch does not light up at all.

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My 1988 Nissan AC quit working soon after having the compressor & ect replaced. AC Tecnition took the switch box out from under the dash and cleaned it. He also fixed a loose wire in it. He said this cars switch box calcimates and does not make good contact. AC works great.

Posted on May 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1997 ford ranger, a/c compressor keeps turning off and on only when the engine is at idle, what could be causing this?


problem high pressure switch or faulty condenser fan
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I saw you answer regarding the fuses for AC on the Acura RDX 2008. My AC starting blowing hit air I tried to recharge it but it was full so I know that's not the problem . The pressure was high. The person...


More then likely the valve is open on the heater hose , there are two small hoses running from the engine radiator to the heater radiator , one has a valve or tap that is open to heat and closed when the air con is engaged, make sure it's not frozen open.

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Condenser fan not engaging


Possibly low on refrigerant. When system is low on freon, it does not build up enough high side pressure to engage the condenser fan . When pressure is high enough. a high side pressure switch kicks on the cond. fan to maintain high side pressure. Have the system evacuated and recharged to proper level.

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Condenser fan not engaging when A/C turned on. All fuses and relays look fine. Tested fan with eternal power and it runs.


Possibly low on refrigerant. When system is low on freon, it does not build up enough high side pressure to engage the condenser fan . When pressure is high enough. a high side pressure switch kicks on the cond. fan to maintain high side pressure. Have the system evacuated and recharged to proper level. A system dye can be added to check for any possible leaks.

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Fan wont come on


You may have a faulty thermostat. If its stuck closed the fan won't run. Thermostat tells the car when to turn on/turn off the fan based on how hot the engine is getting.

Jul 29, 2012 | 1998 Honda CR-V

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My car is running hot, and I dont know what to do.


{: ) You didn't mention the model of your vehicle. Anyway, we can try some cooling system basics.
You can begin checking with the things that keep the engine cool.
1. The coolant. Are you using plain H2O? Check the coolant level and also look for signs of coolant leaks.
2. The radiator. Check for obstructions at the radiator area like plastics and debris. Foreign materials could have accumulated on the radiator fins. Clean if necessary.
3. Cooling fans. Check for damages or cracks. Is it operating at expected speeds when it should be? For example, at 106deg it works on low speed, at 110deg it should spin high speed. If it stays on low speed all time or none at all, check the fan relays and fuses.
4. Water pump. Is it noisy? Have you checked the belt? It may be old and cracked, better replace it. If a thermostat is stuck, coolant won't circulate and engine will heat up fast to undesirable levels.

How about the other things that add more heat to the engine?
1. Engine pulleys getting stuck. A/C, water pump, steering pump, alternator, idler and tensioner pulleys.
2. A/C system high pressures on the condenser.
3. Oil level and pressure low
4. Poor engine emissions performance. Engine timing, tune-up, clogged exhaust pipes
5. Stuck brakes or bearings
6. High ambient temperatures
7. Poor wheel alignment, low tire pressures

I hope I didn't miss out on any other more important things to include. Wish you goodluck.

Jul 24, 2011 | Buick LeSabre Cars & Trucks

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The truck is overheating every time the a/c is on but the thing is when the a/c is turning off and on every 10 seconds, and engine looses much power with a/c on... thanks


{: ) If the engine running performance is well and good without the a/c, observe the a/c compressor performance and cooling. A cycling compressor can be caused by high pressure on the discharge side. The higher the pressure, the more heat will be generated specially at the a/c condenser. Engine overheating and poor a/c cooling has one common factor: the engine cooling fans. Normally when you turn on a/c, additional load and heat will stress the engine. For the cooling fans, there is a low and hi speed. If these cooling fans do not operate at precise timing and speed, the heat generated by the condenser and radiator will combine and rise up to a critical level. So better check carefully the condition and operation of your cooling fans. Check also the fan relays and fuses.
I just hope it's not a module issue, it will need more diagnostics, and very costly ,too.

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I have a 2004 Pontiac Sunfire. When the car is in idle the air blows out hot and the Temperature gage rises and the car over heats. When the car is moving the air blows out ice cold and the temperature...


Sounds like your cooling fans on the radiator are not working. The fans are activated by a thermol switch on the engine or radiator reading the coolant temperature and an A/C switch. When the coolant is too hot the fans should activate cooling the system down. And, when the A/C is on the fans should also activate in order to cool the condensate so the A/C would work.

When you are driving, the movement of the vehicle throught he air is providing enough air flow to keep things cool and functional.

I would check the radiator fan fuse or fuses first. If those are OK I would try to run the fans with 12 volts and a ground that I supply just to see if the fan motor(s) actually run when powered. If the fan don't run when powered then the fans are bad and will need to be replaced. If the fans do run when you power them manually, then something is not allowing the power to activate, like a relay, control unit, or wiring.

It will take a little diagnostics, but it is not too difficult to chase it down.

May 03, 2011 | Pontiac Sunfire Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

A/c deosnt blow cold on hot days,fre-ion level is good ,and condenser is cold


HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

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