I can not disconnect the the end of the cv joint that goes in the block. i looked through the hayne's book and followed everything step by step, and still can not get it out. is there a hidden bolt that i did not see?
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CAUTION: It is advisable to get this job done by a qualified technician otherwise you will take the consequences.
Do the following job at your own risk.
- Place the car on a level floor.
- Pull up the hand brake.
- Block the rear wheels with wheel stoppers, wooden blocks or bricks.
- Call a friend or relative to depress the foot brake, turn the steering wheel little towards left side and put the car in 4th gear.
- Loosen the axle nut force fully (large one in the center of wheel) with a socket and double extension rod.
- Loosen the four wheel nuts.
- Lift up the front left wheel with Jack, place a support under the strong chassis and remove the jack.
- Remove all the wheel nuts and remove the front left wheel.
- Place a container or tray under the inner CV joint to preserve the transmission oil which will come out unavoidably during the axle removal.
- Remove the lower ball joint nut.
- Remove the tie rod end.
- You don't have to remove the hub completely but to release it a little.
- Pull the hub out by pressing the CV joint in and take the outer end of the CV joint out of the hub.
- Place a strong long chisel like lever between the inner CV joint cup and the transmission and push the cup away from the transmission to take the lock out of its host.
The swaybar is still giving you tension. The link has to be disconnected to the control arm. You need to disconnect the balljoint for the tie rod. Before removing the lower ball joint from the hub assembly, mark with a punch for reference when putting it back. There is no need to remove the center nut for CV joint unless it is the original strut which is longer when in static position. Note; DO NOT roll vehicle on the ground without a CV joint connected to the hub, wheel bearing will be crushed from vehicle weight.
You can use a 1/4" extension end placed on the slot to spread the strut carrier wide enough to release the strut from the carrier.
Disconnect the front sway bar linkage from the control arm. Disconnect the steering ball joint and lower control arm ball joint then and only then you will have elbow room work around once you have removed the axle nut from the CV joint. Sorry no short cut for this procedure, some even disconnect the control arm from the car to persuade the removal.
the interior circlip its in the end on the spline ,very difficult to see and evan harder to get to,look inside the cv where the shaft goes in and you will see a bigger gap in the cv housing as you turn it around .This is where the eyes of the circlip are located ,spread them
The best thing to do is call a "mechanic buddy" and have a case of beer on stanby. But if your determined to do it, than at least get a haynes or chiltons book to help with exploded view of the parts breakdown. I would start by jacking the rear end on stands and taking off the tires, the rear brakes and rear bearing assemblies. The cv shafts line up like a regular driveshaft on a rwd, so make sure you don't whack any of the splines up around the edges where they meet the transaxle. I will tell you if you're not comfortable with doing your own brakes, you will do yourself a galactic amount of good by finding someone who is to help you out.