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remove the tire and seperate the upper and lower control arm (youll need a pickle fork) be carefull not to damage your bushings) pop the tie rod end out so you can swing everything away. remove hub nut and swing assembly out of the way (you may need to lightly tap on the axle end to pop the axle splines out of the hub). at this point the halfshaft should pop right out of the transaxle. this is a general method you may have some sort of retainer hold the halfshaft in place.
This has a Borg Warner 1350 series transfur cast. cLimb under the truck with a 10 mm socket and rachet and remove the 3 bolts holding the electric transfur case motor, Looks like a soda can. Once removed ,you will see what looks like a try-angle shaft turn it twards the right. You have just moved the low-high fork. Put the motor back on and pull the 4x4 fuse until you change the 4x4 motor
yes and no the fork is lubed by splash not submersion in gear oil also rod is only extended when in use normally not exposed for most of its life this is the most common problem with 4x4 systems the actuator rod/fork sticking 4x4 for most owners is a limited use option
awkward with diff carrier in place but possible need car jacked up high as you can remove lower plate on carrier for better acces remove hand brake cable from callipers release lock tab remove the mounting bolts and the fork feed calliper round brake disc towards rear of carrier on bench note correct fitted position of pads remove nuts holding each pad clean mounting faces well if this not done new pd can be damaged fit and secure new pads unwind adjuster bolt operate calliper lever to check adjuster working should hear it click if ok refit io car guide in poition locate in position a taper gound on to bolt helps as easy to miss hole in calliper when happy it correct gently remove bolts fit fork and tab secure bolts engage fork lugs in calliper arms operate calliper lever by hand till freeplay is taken up pads now in correct position do other side refit cable and lower plate good luck
hit the steering knuckle where the ball joint shaft goes through it while u have the wedge/pickle fork inserted, u do this on the round side of the knuckle, this is what is called a "Morse Taper" hitting it distorts the hole a little and that lets the joint pop free. You need at least a 5 pound ball pen for this to work..
Transmission are kinda tricky. Yes you'll have to take the t-case off. Transmissions won't just fall apart when you break them open. But first things first. What's it doing. And if you don't really know anything about transmissions, I would give it to a shop to rebuild. Won't cost very much.
There are two parts to the 4X4 engagement. One part is the transfer case actually shifting into four wheel, and the second part is the front axle engaging.
If you have a manual shift, as long as the linkage is working, the transfer case is engaged and the problem will be in the front axle. If you have an electronic shift, you can determine if the transfer case is engaged by the lights on the switch. If the switch lighting is correct, the problem is in the front axle. If the lights are not correct, reset the encoder motor module (located behind the ash tray, listen for the clicking when you press the 4X4 button) by disconnecting it for a few seconds and reconnecting it. If this doesn't correct the problem, it's probably the encoder motor. (located on the driver's side of the transfer case) After you change the encoder motor you may have to reset the module again.
Front axle-verify the servo (either air or electric) is operating the clutch fork in the axle by removing the cable end in the axle. Sometimes it's a small shear spring that breaks. Otherwise, usually it's the shim kit and/or fork that need to be replaced. Parts are cheap, but it takes some time because you have a lot of parts to remove.