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Where is the code connector on a 99 slk 230

I want to buy a code reader to check those fault code just want to check the whereabouts of it was and the type I'd need, I was told it was near the hood release but it wasn't on mine

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  • vic tor c
    vic tor c Dec 29, 2012

    from the solution it would seem that it is 16 pin OBD1?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 5,252 Answers

No, any car made after 1996, should be OBD-2. At least, cars made for American markets.

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: checking the fault codes

Yes.  Next to the ash tray there is a black slide off plate that reveals the OBD I plug.  {1996 and newer can be read with an OBD II reader (read for free at Advance auto or Auto Zone)}  Once you reveal this plug on the 1995, you can plug in a single jumper wire (or even a paper clip) in the #4 and #15 pin hole.  There are two rows of pin holes, count from the upper right to the #4, then on to #15 (which will be the second to last pin hole).  Turn the ignition switch on (motor not running), insert the jumper wire for about 3 to 5 seconds, then remove the wire.  The ENGINE LIGHT will flash a hold, then the code, which will go something like this, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, flash, flash.  Then it will repeat the codes if you just sit there and observe it.  The code in my example would be a 2214 code.
Below are some code I found on a website.  I hope this helps.  Now I ask that you take the time to answer someone elses question.  Lets all share.  Good luck, "Peace through power and knowledge"

CODE FAULT
0000 End of fault sequence
1111 Bad ground to Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or ECU failure-check grounds or replace
ECU
1119 Transmission Range - Defective wiring. Check for break or short.
1213 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the wiring of
the instrument cluster
1231 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (G54) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the
wiring of the instrument cluster
1232 Throttle Position Actuator - Check defective actuator or wiring for break or short.
2111 Engine speed sender. (RPM)
2112 Ignition reference sender
2113 Hall sender - No speed signal from distributor; check Hall sensor and circuits or the
Air-flow sensor plate is not moving freely; adjust potentiometer or lever.
2114 Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.
2121 Idle switch - check switch & circuit.
2122 Hall sender - Check wiring for break or short.
2123 Full throttle switch; check switch & circuit.
2132 Electronic Control Module (ECM) - No ignition to injection signal.
2141 Knock sensor 1 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2142 Knock sensor 1 signal - Test sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2143 Knock sensor 2 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2144 Knock sensor 2 signal; test sensor.
2212 Throttle Potentiometer - Value out of range.
2214 RPM Signal - Idle speed to high or engine over-revved
2221 Vacuum Control - No vacuum to control unit. Check for leaks.
2222 Manifold Vacuum - Check vacuum line and wastegate for leaks.
Pressure sensor - Sensor defective
2223 Altitude Sensor - Check sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2224 Turbo/Manifold pressure - Check turbo control wiring, check for over boost, air leak,
defective wastegate valve, vacuum leak or defective pressure sensor.
2231 Idle-speed stabilizer adjustment limits exceeded; too-fast idle. Adjust throttle for full
closing, check for vacuum leak, check ignition timing.
Or
Air Mass Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2232 Air mass/flow sensor - No signal. Check wiring for break or short.
2233 Air mass/flow sensor reference voltage open or short circuit
2234 ECM Supply voltage low.
2242 CO-potentiometer voltage low
2312 Coolant temperature sensor - Check wiring, check resistance.
2314 Transmission to Engine control module circuit. - Check wires for breaks or shorts.
2322 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2323 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks.
2324 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts to B+ or ground or
check for air leak.
2331 Oxygen Sensor Control - Out of range. - Check ignition, air intake for leaks and injectors.
2332 Oxygen Sensor - Bank 2 - Check wiring for breaks or shorts.
2341 Oxygen sensor (O2) at control limit; check CO, lambda-sensor wire, lambda-sensor
control, start valve, evaporative system and check for vacuum leaks.
2342 Oxygen Sensor Control - no signal - Check wiring, sensor.
2343 Rich limit; the pressure regulator has exceeded +10 mA for more than 5 minutes,
closed-loop; check for vacuum leaks.
2344 Lean limit; the pressure actuator has exceeded -5mA for more than 5 minutes, closed
loop; check idle.
2411 EGR System Malfunction
2412 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts
2413 Mixture Control - Running rich
Fuel pressure too low
3424 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure - Check lamp and wiring.
4311 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay - Check relay and wiring.
4312 EGR Frequency Valve
4313 Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve - Check valve and wiring.
4331 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 2
4332 Ignition Circuit Final Stage - Check for break or short to ground or B+ or bad ECM.
4343 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 1
4411 Fuel Injector Cylinder 1 or 1 & 5
4412 Fuel Injector Cylinder 2 or 2 & 7
4413 Fuel Injector Cylinder 3 or 3 & 6
4414 Fuel Injector Cylinder 4 or 4 & 8
4421 Fuel Injector Cylinder 5
4422 Fuel Injector Cylinder 6
4423 Fuel Injector Cylinder 7
4424 Fuel Injector Cylinder 8
4431 Idle Air Control Valve / Idle Stabilizer - Check valve and wiring.
4433 Fuel Pump Relay
4442 Wastegate - Defective frequency valve or wiring.
Boost pressure circuit - Check for short.
4443 EVAP Canister purge valve.
4444 No fault in system.

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: can't open hood

if you can still get to the little steel cable, a extremely tight pair of vise grips and a moderate amount of force will do the trick.

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: sticking roof

This symptom almost always points to a lubrication issue. The SLK hardtop is notorious for needing to belubricated every couple of years. Here is a link with directions andphotos:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1426014-lubing-vario-roof-pics-1-krytox.html

Mark Andrews

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

  • 1986 Answers

SOURCE: The hood will not release to open. I released the

So I gather that the release inside the car has release the hood's primary catch, but the T handle is not release the secondary catch to allow the hood to fully open.

If this is the case, take some lithium grease or WD-40 (lithium grease is much better and lasts much longer) and spray it onto the catch assembly.

Try pulling on the T handle some more after a few minutes of the grease soaking in and see of that releases.

If that doesn't work, then take a long flat screw driver and press it against the catch gently hit the screw driver with a hammer (you should be trying to push the catch towards the driver's side of the car)
You may need someone to be pulling on the T handle as you hit the catch with a hammer. I actually had to do this with a jetta before....

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

michael4wgv
  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 slk 230 kompressor convertible top sticks

no the fluid doesn't need to be changed. it most likely is not seeing one of the micro-switches for the convertible top or the windows are not syncronized meaning the one touch/express mode is not working. to sync windows just open and close windows using the 1st detent on the window switch. when the window is fully closed hold switch for 3secs longer. as for the micro-switches the wiring sometimes breaks behind the headliner.

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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