Question about 1992 Nissan NX
First check all fuses with a tester,if they all are good,next check the switch & connector for corrosion & possible broken wire,if those are good the bulbs might have burnt out,if you only had a few were working the rest might have reached the limit & now your totally dark,usually when the switch goes it goes all together no nothing so I think the other things I have mentioned will bring back your dash lights as long as there was no electrical work done,if there was theres a blown fuse that will continue to blow until the circuit is corrected
Posted on Dec 30, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I recommend that anyone should have an inexpensive multimeter for troubleshooting such problems.
They can be bought at electronics supply and auto parts stores for under $20, come with Chinglish instructions for the novice and can make a difficult problem such as yours fairly easy to find.
You probably have a cable that has been worn through to the copper conductor inside and you may pull all your hair out before you find it unless you equip yourself a little. If it doesn't come with clip leads, buy those too, you will be happy to have them for this problem.
Once you have one, remove first the negative (ground) cable from your battery, then the positive. so the battery is no longer in circuit. Turn on the defective circuit (running lights). Remove the fuse and check continuity from the fuse clip to the positive battery clamp so you know which side of the clip is attached to 12V when the lights are turned on.
Once you have found this, move the clip from the + fuse terminal to the other (empty) one; this is the point at which the overload circuit will show itself. Attach the free clip to any bare metal handy; this will be ground or negative.
You should measure some fairly low resistance between those points but nothing like what you read on the lowest range when you put the two clips together; this is 'lead resistance.'
Keeping the meter display visible, turn off the switch for the lights to look for a change. If there is none, it could be because the switch controls a relay and the relay is isolating you from the problem circuit. If this is the case, you will have to beg, borrow or buy a service manual from Haynes or Chilton containg the electrical diagrams, or rope someone else into doing the work for you ;-)
If you do see some change when turning the switch on and off, then leave it on and start annoying cables under the dashboard while watching the meter display; if this doesn't change the display, you will have to start moving cables under the hood, and perhaps even in the rear of the car around the tail light assemblies.
There is also a brute force way to find it without using a meter or any intelligence (yeah, ok, I've done it, but only ONCE), you can substitute a heavy piece of copper wire jammed into the fuse holder and look for smoke; that's where the wire is shorted to ground. On this last suggestion - you didn't hear it from me-
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
SOURCE: parking light fuse
It should be fuse #36 (10 amp) in the box under dash. Its marked illum. lights. If it was blown and it blows again after you replace it you have a short somewhere in the circuit. P.S. your owners manual should give you fuse locations.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
Fuse Number 39 10amp fuse Color Red.
Fuse Number 11 10amp fuse Color Red
This illuminated your dash (cluster)
Let me know if this help you.
Check with test light.
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
in every transmission there is a reverse light switch, located on the tranny itself. it looks like an oil pressure switch, sorta threaded plug with a wide outside end with terminals for the wires. you may havta replace that.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
Did you find the prolbem? Im having the exact same problem you have. Mine is doing it after it died and I replaced the starter but now it wont start and the fuse eng cont 1 keeps getting burned out instantly
Posted on Aug 06, 2010
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