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check the drive system for the distributor
ford employ a shaft that drives the oil pump and if the oil pump is under undue stress, it strips the gear or breaks a shear pin
all the gear is driving is a distributor shaft and in the first instance could be a seized bush for the shaft but with replacements failing I would be looking further afield , like an oil pump
Sounds like the distributor is causing problems. The distributors are known to have bearing wear problems, so even if the cap is recently changed, you might need a whole new distributor. At the very least, it sounds like a tune-up may be needed: new spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap.
Also, if you have the V-6, the timing belt needs to be changed every 105,000 miles. a timing belt with stripped teeth could be causing your issues, and if the teeth are stripped it probably won't be long before the belt lets go and you completely ruin the engine. It's an interference engine, so without proper timing, the pistons can make physical contact with open valves, causing bent valves or connecting rods. At that point it is cheaper to replace the whole engine rather than tear it apart and rebuild it.
Relatively simple gig. Remove wires from plugs making sure to note which leads to which plug so that firing order is maintained on re-installation, remove vacuum hose from pvc valve, remove six valve cover retaining bolts and remove valve cover. Clean that up making sure there is no residue on gasket mating surface on wither the valve cover itself or the top side of the header. place new gasket in place and replace valve cover torquing bolts to appx. 72-108 inlb. Replace pvc vacuum line followed by plug wires and you\'re set. This is a stripped down version as there will be many hoses and lines in the way but you should just be able to wiggle past these. If you do end up taking anything else out just make sure you remember where and how it connect and you\'ll do fine. Nothing this high up is that terribly sensitive. Good Luck!
you may have stripped teeth on the speedo gear. If you look at where the wiring connects to the aft left side of the transmission you'll see a sensor sticking out of the trans. It's held on by one little bolt. Pull that guy out and inspect the teeth; broken or stripped teeth will keep it from spinning. Otherwise your sensor is probably bad and should be replaced. Replacement teeth can be purchased from Steeda.
The wiper arm is either loose or the gear has stripped out the arm socket itself. Try taking the arm off and turn the wipers on, if that gear still turns, then try tightening the arm back down. If it is stripped, you must replace the arm. Otherwise, if the gear still doesnt turn, the connecting rods under the cowl have been damaged and may need replaced.
Typically this is caused from improper timing. On that engine 3.8 v-6 most likely the timing gear is stripped and caused the chain to rotate.
The cam gear teeth is plastic, the plastic wears down (stripped) then the chain becomes loose which will change the timing which causes backfire when cranking over to start.
That engine doesn't have a distributor to check "top dead center" but the cam-sensor can be removed to look inside to see if the plastic gear is worn. I wouldn't recommend you doing this unless you know what to do. I would recommend to tow the car to the closest Buick dealership for inspection. If I'm right, you'll need to replace the timing gears & chain.
This is a "TUG" with a 1984 Ford engine,231, four cylinders that uses propane. From other source, I was informed that the center mark of the three found on the backing , timing cover, should be lined up with the mark on the camshaft. The crankshaft sprocket to be lined up with the notch, just above the sprocket. The auxiliary sprocket that also controls the distributor shaft rotation, rotor should be pointing at the #1 position with reference to the distributor cap. This was the information I used and the engine got started. Note: This particular engine has 129 teeth on the timing belt.
Since you are getting spark and fuel we know you are good there. Check the timing on the engine. Turn the engine from the front of the crankshaft with a socket and a large breaker bar until you reach top dead center of the intake stroke. Then remove the distributor cap and check to make sure the rotor is pointing to the # 1 cylinder. It almost sounds from your description of the sound the engine is making that the timing chain has jumped a few teeth on the gear. These factory gears have a nylon coating on the teeth and over time the nylon chips off the gear. When to much of this plastic gets chipped off the teeth it results in chain slack on the push side of the gear. When you shut the engine off it can jump a few teeth at the very last second before the engine stops rotating the crank and cause it to jump teeth. The engine probably has high mileage and might need the timing gears and chain replaced now. If you perform the visual check with the distributor I think you will find the chain has jumped a few teeth. If you need more help come back to this site and one of us will be glad to help. Good luck. Let me know what you discover.