Question about 1990 Volkswagen Jetta

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Temp light flash during cold stert

I would go out after warm up is reached but is getting even harder.

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  • RandomJetta May 01, 2009

    Same prob. checked entire cooling system from end to end. Now I believe it may be something to do with the temperature sender unit thermo-switch. or temp sensor. also found my coolant leak was from the plugs attached to the bottom of temp sender, but the gasket is good... may just be that the jetta plastic "crack pipe" junction is faulty from overheating and leaked coolant continuously over the switch until it shorted... I am currently frustrated as hell... If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to comment...

    Thank you,
    "RandomJettaOwner"


    1990 Volkswagen Jetta GL 1 G2 2V2 / 77 KW GKAT 5G



  • RandomJetta May 02, 2009

    top it off... still flashes

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Your coolant level may be low check it when it is cold.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

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Hi there, I have a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta Flair 2. I've had the car for about a year now and overall it's been an excellent car for it's age. However, there's always something that needs to be fixed and lately I've had throttle response problems. I do not have any mechanical backround, so I will describe it as best as I can. For one, it seems apparent this is an issue when the engine is cold (or not sitting in the sun all day). I will put the foot down, and it won't respond until it gets to about 3000rpm (right around when I'm thinking about changing gears), and then it rocket ships forward. Before it finally responds, there's a lot of shaking going on in the engine bay. It doesn't sound pleasant either. I took it in for an oil change, and they put fuel injector in it and it seemed to be a temporary solution. Whatever the case, there's a poor connection between me putting the throttle down and the car responding to the action. I do rev it up before I get going, but it's kind of futile. So as a result, I have a tendency to stall in first gear at low speeds as the gas doesn't react when I want it to, and the clutch is usually released by that point. After about 5-10 minutes of constant driving, it will accelerate smoothly. If you can point me in the right direction, whether it's "fuel" related, or it's some sort of heat sensor (I have no idea what I'm talking about), let me know if you've had similar experiences. All my repairs have cost me less than a 100 each time, I want to keep it that way.

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