Re: My power window on drivers side doesnt work along...
I recently had the same problem. Before reconnecting your new Battery you need to reset your entire electrical system by Holding the Positive and Negative leads of your truck together for approximately 30 seconds. Make sure the baterry is not conncted in any way before you do this!!
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Re: My power window on drivers side doesnt work along...
I would first check for ( In THAT DOOR Hindge Area where the harness is there may be a Break in the Main Power Lead they can Break INSIDE Insolator coating Also Double check FUSES I have Repaired these Very Wires for the SAME Sympton. RATE Me Please if this info helps you
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Check inside of door where wiring comes thru for broken wires ,ECU doesn't control windows or door locks. You didn't state what model vehicle you own. But opening and closing door on drivers side causes broken wires on numerous vehicles over the years, most makes and models. Split boot and check all wires inside for breakage.
well, the first thing is to check the fuses and or relay for power windows.should be listed in your owners manual. if ok, then remove switch from drivers side window and check for power. if power to the switch then use a jumper wire from power side to motor side of switch. if window works then its the switch causing the problem. Good-day!
1 does the led's light up on the master window switch [drivers side] 2 when you rocker the drivers side down can you hear a audio click down under the steering wheel. the i/p fuse panel is down there where you rest your left foot.3 power is from battery saver relay to master ins. relay to one touch window relay. this is the one you should hear click. the back side of this fuse panel calls out the locations down there. the owners manule also helps some.4. if you take the interior door cover off remove the screw on extenstion on door lock and one screw under plastic button where you pull the door shut.arm rest support bracket. the rest is held in place with snap in plastic buttons [christmas trees like]. the door latch unlock should slide out of the opening when you slide it froward.there are 4 male/female electrical connections, 2 to the master door switch.one to the power/heated mirror, 1 to power locks. 5. don't unsnap them yet.with a test light you can check for battery voltage. on the master door switch the blue/black tracer wire should be hot[12 volt dc]. at all times. put one end in the backside and the other to a bolt or rivet on the door. the light should come on.next with one end on the blue/black tracer and one on white/black tracer rocker driver side up/down switch, the light should come on.there are only 13 wires on the master window switch 2black wires are ground, 2blue/black tracer[hot] 1 red/blue tracer should be [hot] when you unlock the window lock rocker switch.know the passanger and back seat switches should work. switch it to lock and they should only work from the driver side master switch.the 8 wires left are 2 for each window one up one down.try this with a friend it makes it easyer. good luck doug.
Just did this procedure I got from coloradofans.com forums:
"any type of power/voltage change
seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power
locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the
Steps to fix and it works every time.
door panel off driver's door Disconnect the wiring attached to window
and power lock control unit disconnect battery cables connect
the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED))) This
will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later place
the key in the ignition and turn to the run position connect the
wiring to the window/lock controller connect the negative cable to
the battery then the positive open drivers side door turn key
to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of
dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition once
it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock
solenoids trigger and the windows should work." - Coloradofans.com forums
The same circuit breaker feeds the driver door as well as the passengers doors . The wires inside the rubber boot from the body to the door are probably broke ,power or ground wire .Or the door module is bad . Are your familiar with electronic control modules ? The door functions ,windows , lock's , memory etc... are controlled by DDM - driver door module .
Door Control System Operation
This vehicle has five modules capable of performing door system control functions. Vehicle door system components (windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) are controlled directly by these modules. There is a door module located inside of each vehicle door:
• Driver Door Module
• Passenger Door Module
• LH Rear Door Module (LRDM)
• RH Rear Door Module (RRDM)
• LH Front Power Window Switch
Simple Bus Interface (SBI)
Each Door Module communicates with the other Door Modules on the SBI. The driver door module is the only Door Module that is capable of communicating over the Class 2 Data Line as well as the SBI.
Driver Door Module
The driver door module directly controls the LH Front door lock actuator, power window motor and the outside rear view mirror. The driver door module sends and receives messages received from the LH Front Power Window Switch to the passenger door module, LRDM and RRDM modules over the Simple Bus Interface (SBI) line. Also, the driver door module sends and receives message from other vehicle system modules via the Class 2 Data Line.
Pulling the door panel off an checking B+ voltage and ground for the module would be good for you to do , since you probably don't have a $6,000 factory Tech 2 scan tool to see if the DDM is communicating .
The driver door module has two main power feeds (high and low current), and two main grounds. The low power feed (battery 1) is used to provide power for the driver door module's logic and internal driver operation. The high power feed (battery 2) is used to provide power for systems that draw higher amounts of current (motors, lights, etc.). Operating current at the driver door module's battery should not exceed 3.0 amperes at battery 1, and 7.5 amperes (for 2 seconds) at battery 2 while the driver door module is awake, and 2.5 milliamps when the driver door module is asleep. For most driver door module functions, the driver door module will operate properly with a system voltage of 9.0-16.0 volts. If system voltages exceed 16.0 volts the driver door module will provide protection by disabling certain functions that may damage due to higher than normal system voltages.
What kind of manual do you have ? The info above is from a factory repair manual .
The fuse's ,circuit breaker for the door module are located in the rear fuse box , not under hood . PWR WDO circuit breaker 30 amp. , DRVMDL fuse 10 amp. The rear fuse box is located under the back seat . Watch this video ,different type vehicle but probably the same problem . Dodge Grand Caravan No Power Window No Power Locks CAN Trouble