Question about 2006 Chevrolet Colorado

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My power window on drivers side doesnt work along with the power door locks - i just replaced my battery but used a memory saver?

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  • bigragu257 Jan 17, 2009

    it was fine up un til the battery was replaced...may be a coincidence, its a 2004chevy colorado - the window stuck down and the power locks wont work also

  • bigragu257 Jan 17, 2009

    just thye drivers side window isnt working along with the door locks the otehr 3 are fine

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash??

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash??

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash??

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash?? all

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash?? all the

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash?? all the fuses

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash?? all the fuses arte

  • bigragu257 Jan 18, 2009

    Question, since its only the one widow and door locks on both doors, could a master switch be bad or does that have a module and if so is it in the door panel or under the dash?? all the fuses good!!!!

  • keredsnrub Jan 27, 2009

    I have the same problem but my problem started before I changed the battery. I left my truck switched on for an entire weekend. Completely killed the battery.

  • natook Jan 27, 2009

    I have exactly the same problem, I changed the battery the driverside window won't open and the power locks aren't working.

  • salsky26 Feb 03, 2009

    I have a similar problem. The battery went dead because of my stupidity. Since I had the truck jump started the door locks aren't working. They are supposed to lock when the truck is put into gear but they aren't locking. The dash keeps saying doors and you can hear it click but it's not locking.

  • Dan Ragan Feb 06, 2009

    I had to replace my battery in my '05 Colorado in November, 08. Yesterday, my driver's window and door locks quit working. The truck chirps when I use my unlock fob. Not tried using it to lock yet. I know one site had about 30 pages of comments on this same problem.

  • Anonymous Mar 05, 2009

    This problem started (no power window on drivers side, no power door lock operation from either door or the key fob) when I tried to unlock the doors with the drivers side lock switch and my wife had the passanger door handle open. All the fuses are good.

  • gasitjr May 11, 2010

    What year? Was problem there before battery replacement?

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I recently had the same problem. Before reconnecting your new Battery you need to reset your entire electrical system by Holding the Positive and Negative leads of your truck together for approximately 30 seconds. Make sure the baterry is not conncted in any way before you do this!!

This should solve your problem.

Let me know.
bernie_zambrano@yahoo.com

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

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I would first check for ( In THAT DOOR Hindge Area where the harness is there may be a Break in the Main Power Lead they can Break INSIDE Insolator coating Also Double check FUSES I have Repaired these Very Wires for the SAME Sympton. RATE Me Please if this info helps you

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • Ronnie Wilson Jan 18, 2009

    NEW JUICE Bettery,, Raised the output thus if there are and Bad Grounds They show up sometimes this way. Check All Body Grounds And see if there is one close to those 2 relays

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Just did this procedure I got from coloradofans.com forums:

"any type of power/voltage change seems to trigger this issue

The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.

Steps to fix and it works every time.

take door panel off driver's door
Disconnect the wiring attached to window and power lock control unit
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connect the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED)))
This will act to short residual voltage in the system

5 minutes later
place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position
connect the wiring to the window/lock controller
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turn key to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition
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Door Control System Operation
This vehicle has five modules capable of performing door system control functions. Vehicle door system components (windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) are controlled directly by these modules. There is a door module located inside of each vehicle door:
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• RH Rear Door Module (RRDM)
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Each Door Module communicates with the other Door Modules on the SBI. The driver door module is the only Door Module that is capable of communicating over the Class 2 Data Line as well as the SBI.
Driver Door Module
The driver door module directly controls the LH Front door lock actuator, power window motor and the outside rear view mirror. The driver door module sends and receives messages received from the LH Front Power Window Switch to the passenger door module, LRDM and RRDM modules over the Simple Bus Interface (SBI) line. Also, the driver door module sends and receives message from other vehicle system modules via the Class 2 Data Line.
Pulling the door panel off an checking B+ voltage and ground for the module would be good for you to do , since you probably don't have a $6,000 factory Tech 2 scan tool to see if the DDM is communicating .
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