Question about 1998 Hyundai Elantra

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1997 Hyundai Elantra has heat but temp gauge does not rise.

The car has heat but the temp gage does not move and anti-freeze seems to leak from rad. cap. Could a bad cap cause the temp gage not to rise?

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If the coolant is below a certain level, the temperature sensor will not read anything and the temp gauge will not rise. Replace the cap, and check that you have enough coolant in the system. If this does not solve the problem, you will need to test/troubleshoot the coolant temperature sensor.

Posted on Feb 27, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Thermostat or water pump?


Sounds like a thermostat is being sticky. A water pump issue should cause the vehicle to over heat quickly while driving if it is not pumping.

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Pressure test the radiator for leaks if it holds pressure start the engine. And check if pressure rises and keeps rising ,if it does it points to blown gasket or cracked head. A faulty thermostat can make it over heat so check it out . I would not mix the anti freeze as a lot of them don't mix well. put the anti freeze in all year as it stops corrosion of the cooling system.

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We changed thermostat sensor and thermostat, still over heating. What could it be?


overheating has many symptoms, not just green on the ground
do tell?


temp gauge lies its buns off... use a real tool called a thermometer to see real temps. we use a IR pyro gun to see it and not GET burnt.

gauges is telling truth, so......................


a bad rad cap, or bad thermostat are common fails.
test one: (dead cold engine) never hot.
radiator tank filler cap off , you look down there, is the level really low?
(forget the silly side expansion tank for now)
if found low , then fill it and burp it. no air allowed there
running 50% antifreeze now? no?, that its WRONG.
the tool is $2, test it. (Prestone sells it)
the coolant is all rusty color, (ill not comment ) try service.

  1. Green on the ground,? for passengers feet.
  2. Water exploding from overfill side tank? ( oil in RAD or Milky engine oil) (same milk in transmission pan?)Exploding gases, on cold start is bad head gasket or warped head or cracked head/block, or just simple overheating, The Rad leak down test and the exhaust test (green/blue ) tests solve this riddle easy.
  3. Steam rising from hood or Radcap, or hose to Cap and recovery tank. Over heating or leaks.
  4. Dash gauge pegged. (or WILD GAUGE swings "air pockets below thermostat") or gauge bad. sender bad.
  5. Motor pinging and loss of power. (do not allow pinging, it will wreck the engine)
  6. Pistons landing on ground? (just joking....)
  7. A/C dies?, does it?, due to A/C engine overheat switch ,tripping off. a 235 ?F (spec) see FSM. A/C means Air conditioner clutch dead.
  8. Does the engine over heat , if left idling a long time (30min-1hr). or only at stop signs or red lights? (clutch fan not activating , check it, this way.)
  9. Does it only over heat while moving ? ( a bad pump, or Rad)
  10. Overheats, only on hills? (bad RAD)
  11. Only overheats pulling heavy loads ? (inside, full of bricks, or pulling a 1000 trailer ? ONLY?
  12. Never overheats moving fast on flat ground. (so the RAD fan is dead, no mater if stock or hacked in electric fan, it's DEAD)
  13. Do you have carbon or oil floating around in the Rad, filler CAP neck top tank ? yes?, that is bad head gasket or worse cracked block/head. Do the Exhaust test.
  14. Overheats under all conditions, Catastrophic overheat. ( can be bad pump (rotor gone) or RAD or system is packed up)
  15. Seems to overheat , even at first start , in 1min or less I have gases shooting into the overfill tank, that is a bad head gasket (mostly a warped head, at least)
  16. Antifreeze (and water) in the pans, Engine or Transmission.
  17. The RAD fan is DEAD ( just because a mechanical RAD fan coasts, don't mean it WORKS RIGHT.) See the clutch tests below. if electric fan , there is a test in the FSM covers this 100% the fan must come on over heated,.
  18. my electric fan , starts to run idling engine long time at 225F. It kicks on, some cars have 2 fan and staged, come on trip points.
  19. RTM read the manual the FSM>
  20. there is more im sure, cant think of them all now.

That pyro gun allows me to test any RAD easy , ask.
ok , i check all rad tube top and bottom and bingo find any tube clogged fast. if all are equally clogged.(partial) i cant find that.
that is caused by zero service, so...and there are signs for that too.


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On a 1995 chevy lunima have heating problem i replaced thermastat heater core and heat controller still no heat controller


when idling does the temp gauge move on the dash and if you give it gas does it move open the rad cap start the engine let it run for 15-20 mins is the prestone pouring out or is it just setting if it boils out 1-airlock,2-headgasket,after it runs and all the air out try to replace the rad cap possible cap leaking causing no pressure and no heat

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Blowing cold air, overheating


you need to replace the anti-freeze. it was frozen and couldn't flow until it got hot enough to melt the ice.

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No Heat in 99 Taurus


Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at tarusclub.com. After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.

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