Stalling issue Okay, so I just put in a crank sensor and the ignition module for the 89 cutlass surpreme and it still wants to stall. Any ideas before I turn totally grey in a matter of minutes? It starts fine.............this morning (2 degrees out), I started it, drove it about a mile and when I stopped at a stop sign and took off again, it sounded and acted like it wanted to stall but it didn't. I'm getting a little upset about this.

No, not the oxygen sensor. A couple of things you need to make clear. What light flickers, then stays on? That can't be a sensor light, it would have to be the "check engine light" or an engine temperature light (for like when your cluster has no temperature gauge, but just the "red light").
At any rate, the sensor you changed is not the engine temp. sending unit for the instrument panel. I believe on your '89 there would be two sensors for temp. One is the CTS for the engine computer, and the other is a sending unit for the dash, probably a 1 wire connector. It could be at fault, but it wouldn't cause stalling, I do not think anyway.
If it stalls and won't restart until cooled, this is a symptom of loss of ignition (spark) caused by either a faulty coil, or faulty Ignition Control Module (the coil controller), or last a faulty Crank Position Sensor (this sensor used by computer to determine ignition spark timing). You could test if ignition is lost, by checking for spark right after the engine warms and then stalls. If you have no spark to a spark plug right after it stalls, this is the reason for stalling. Usually it is the crank sensor, rather than the ignition control module or an ignition coil. Your car has 3 coils anyway in a "coil pack", so if one coil went bad, you'd still have two good coils, but engine would only be firing on four of the six cylinders-could easily stall a car.
You should check for trouble codes whenever you have a problem. A code might have been set. Easy to check for codes on your car, just ask if you don't know how-only takes a jumper wire or even a paper clip works. good luck.

Try a used computer from a salvage yard. They are cheap. Crank sensor or cam sensor may also be bad. Not sure which one that model has.

SOUNDS LIKE THE IGNITION MODULE OR COIL PACKS HEATING UP

Take the idle air control valve and the EGR valve ogg and clean the carbon out using a non-chlronated brake cleaner

TRY CHANGING FUEL FILTER,COULD BE CLOGGED FUEL FILTER,FUEL PUMP FAILING,FUEL COULD BE CONTAMINATED WITH WATER.IF FUEL SYSTEM OKAY,CHECK FOR SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS,COULD BE FAULTY IGNITION MODULE OR FAULTY IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE I WOULD HAVE VECHICLE CODE SCAN FIRST BEFORE SPENDING MONEY.

Sounds like the crank sensor is going bad.

Spark could be its only problem, you say the ignition module is okay? Are you talking about the ignition coil, mounted at the end of the cylinder head? That is not the ignition module, the module is located on the left front fenderwell in front of the strut tower, small black rectangular shaped box about a half-inch thick. Have you checked the timing belt? Hope this is helpful, let me know.

89 cierra? It should be DIS ignition so you can't have the timing too high. You said it has fuel and spark. Fuel pressure and injection pulse. Does it try to start if you spray carb cleaner into it?

Check for trouble codes first thing, It could be a number of things. example, mass air flow sensor, map sensor, crank sensor, ignition module. Check for codes first to see if there are any. That will help you get on the right track

could be a crankshaft position sensor located on the back side of the engine. There is a two wire plug on it and should be close to the freeze-out plugs. you will need an 8mm wrench to remove it.