An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Removal of Oil pan
Did you try giving it a gentle smack with a rubber hammer? these pans are usually glued on with silicone and will not just fall off after unbolting... sometimes you need to get something like a paint scraper and slide it between block and rail to seperate the two.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Some have to be pried off. Sometimes you have to hammer a ***** driver between the pan and engine. The lip of the pan will bend, make sure you straighten it before going back together. Use plenty of silicone. I use a 1/4 inch bead around the pan and every hole.
Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine toT.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.
Hi, have you removed the distributor and oil pump? See procedure pasted below.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the coolant.
Remove the radiator hoses, the automatic transmission cooler lines (if
equipped), the radiator and the shroud.
When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are
attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze, and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will
prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a
sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated
or several years old.
If equipped with power steering, unbolt the pump and move it
aside. DO NOT disconnect any of the hoses. Remove the pump mounting
bracket from the engine. Remove the idler adjusting bracket from the
If equipped with an air pump, remove the pump and bracket.
If equipped with air conditioning, remove the idler pulley bracket
and the belt. Unbolt the two lower compressor mounting bolts and
support the compressor, then remove the two upper bolts and the mounting
Support the compressor in such a way that stress will not be placed
on the hoses. DO NOT disconnect any of the compressor hoses or lines.
Remove the distributor.
Remove the oil pump attaching bolts, the pump and its drive
spindle. Refer to the Engine Lubrication portion of this section for
Remove the engine cooling fan and the pulley, together with the drive belt, then remove the water pump.
Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and the pulley, lock-up the
engine to do this. The best way is to remove the flywheel inspection
cover between the engine and transmission, then lock the flywheel with a
tool made for the purpose. These are available in auto parts stores.
Remove the front cover-to-cylinder block bolts, the four bolts
retaining the oil pan to the front cover and the two bolts screwed down
through the front of the cylinder head into the top of the front cover.
Carefully pry the front cover off the engine.
Cut the exposed front section of the oil pan gasket away from the
oil pan. Do the same to the gasket at the top of the front cover. Remove
the two side gaskets and clean all the mating surfaces thoroughly.
Cut the portions needed from a new oil pan gasket and top front cover gasket.
Apply sealant to all of the gaskets and position them on the engine in their proper places.
To replace the oil seal, perform the following:
Using a pointed piece of plastic or wood, pry the old seal from
the cover. DO NOT use a screwdriver or other metal tools, which will
damage the sealing lip.
Oil the lip of the new seal; DO NOT use grease. Press the seal
into place, making sure the flat side faces forward and the lip faces
the front of the engine. Use a seal driver made for the purpose (if
possible) or a socket of the proper diameter.
Oil the crankshaft and the newly installed seal, then install the front cover.
Carefully mount the front cover to the engine. Install the
mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 7-12 ft. lbs. (9-16 Nm) for 8mm
bolts or to 3-6 ft. lbs. (4-8 Nm) for 6mm bolts and the oil pan bolts to
4-7 ft. lbs. (5-9 Nm).
Before installing the oil pump, place the gasket over the shaft
and make sure that the mark on the drive spindle faces (aligns with) the
oil pump hole. Install the oil pump so that the projection on the top
of the shaft is located in the exact position as when it was removed or
is in the 11 o'clock position with the piston in the No. 1 cylinder
placed at TDC on the compression stroke (if the engine was disturbed).
This will ensure proper distributor timing. Tighten the oil pump bolts
to 8-10 ft. lbs. (10-13 Nm).
For further information on the oil pump, refer to the Oil Pump removal and installation procedures in this section.
To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures.
On 96 Grand Am 2.4L you have to remove the motor mount first to get the top 2 transaxle bolts on the mount bracket removed. The bracket and trans mount are removed as one unit after all 8 bolts are removed. You will need a 3 foot bry bar to move the engine over to the side as far as possible to make room for the 2 top bolts to be removed.
Remove the motor mount bolts on both sides. Using a jack & wood block, jack the engine high enough to allow the pan clearance enough for removal. Use wood blocks(4 by 4) at motor mounts & lower engine mounts onto the blocks. Lower & remove jack & block at jack. Remove pan bolts & carefully using a large pry bar or common screwdriver pry the pan away from engine . Good luck!
No big job Really. Just locate your Drain Plug for the Oil. Thepan is right there, Remove the Bolts around the Pan and Remove. You will lose all of your oil so, Have something there to catch it all. Clean it all around the Edges of the Block where the Pan mounts with Degreaser and Make sure that you Scrape the Old Gasket off of Both the Block and the Pan. Run a Thin Bead of Blue ATV Silicone around the Pan Edge, Lay the Gasket on top of this Silicone. Put another Thin line on top of the Gasket and Reinstall. This Silicone is High Temp Silicone and will Seal Very Well. Make sure to put oil Back in the Motor! Please Rate my Response, I need all the Help That I can Get! Thanks!
It is in the way.
You have to support the motor with a floor jack on the oil pan.
I would use a flat piece of wood to distribute the weight, remember you dont have to lift it just support it. Then you will take the two bolts out on the top of the mount and remove the top plate. This will give you the room needed to change the belt not allot but enough, you can also lift the motor a little to increase the space to slide the old belt out and the new one in. When putting the plate back on the mount do not use an impact gun because the bolts will break.