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Re: cold air all the time
One of you trampillias not working either a thin plastic pipe has come off or computer not working or a control switch so the flap is not opening up allowing the air to blow over the heater core rad .look under bonnet for a valve/solonoid with a pipe in and two or three out,sometimes this packs up which doesnt allow the vacumn through to open the actuators (trampillias)
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#1 Listen if you hear the blend door flap open and close if you do then working good.
#2 run car to normal temp and touch both heater hoses and make sure temp is similar if one is hot and the other warm then your heater core is clogged and most likely that can be the problem it build lime from having tap or well water in coolant system distilled water is recommended but who uses that.
#3 run car when cold with cap off @ 2k rpm and top off radiator. Then close cap and continue to rev @2k until normal temp if heater hoses are not equal in temp heater core clogged.
If you are getting hot water/coolant to the heater core and still no hot air coming out the vents, then it's a issue with the climate control or blend door. After running your engine and it reaching normal operating temp, locate your heater hoses that goes to the heater core. Carefully touch them to make sure both hoses are hot to the touch, if they are, you are getting hot water/coolant to and from the heater core. So, then it will have to be a issue with the climate control in the dash or either the blend door in the air box. It's a common problem for the climate control to go out on these models, hope this helps.
does the heater work good, like real HOT when the truck is HOT? if not, flush the heater core with a water hose, both directions. Now when the truck is HOT open the hood and feel the air coming thorough the radiator, it should be HOT. if its not, the radiator may be plugged. If the mechanic has a Temp Gun, have him check the radiator temp, it should be uniformly HOT if you find cold spots (like if the radiator is 200f and there are places that are 150f) the radiator is plugged and "flushing" will do nothing.
Could be the diverter valve. It's the one located near the firewall in the engine bay. The valve is in-line on one of the two coolant hoses that run through the firewall. Have a helper rotate the temperature knob back and forth, with the ignition turned on, and you watch to see if the valve is being adjusted. I'm guessing it isn't. Sometimes the cable pops off its perch, other times someting is broken on one end of it or the other. Plastic parts are often used in this assembly. Best of luck
After warmup it still blows cold, or only when cold? Normally the fan will operate independently of engine temp except in some climate controlled vehicles. As long as it blows warm air after engine is at temp that's a good thing. the heater uses hot water from the engine. Obviously the heater can't be warm before the engine is. If it's cold after the engine is hot, there are vacuum controlled "motors" on top of the heater box under the dash that move doors that control heat. Either one of the control motors or one of the doors have stuck or failed. Many also have a control valve on one of the heater hoses under the hood as well. If the engine comes up to temp then the thermostat is good (should be at about 210f) Only remaining item is the core itself which may be internally or externally obstructed. All this being said, if it's good when the engine is up to temp, leave it alone...it's fine.
I think you could be right about there being air trapped in the system. Or the heater core(radiator) is plugged. Either way you need a pressurized radiator coolant pump to put the coolant in without air being trapped. Although,i have seen it done by jacking the vehicle up high enough that the radiator was now higher than the heater core level, and then the coolant was put in. But this is dangerous to try.