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I have never heard of an engine noise being described as a tick tack rattling noise. (I assume you mean Tick Tack candy/breathmints?) \
Either way, if it doesnt start, but just makes a rattling/knocking sound, I would ask you did it just quit on you and not restart? Or did it get you where you were going and then would not start when you were ready to leave? If the answer to the first question is yes, then you are likely facing a broken timing belt. The sound you hear are the valves coming into contact with the pistons when you are cranking the starter. This is a bad sound. Lets hope your answer was no to the first and yes to the second. Are you sure have gas? I cannot tell you how many times people have told me "It just won't start!" only to pour a gallon of gas in and varrroooom! What about oil? The tick tack sound just doesn't sound like a healthy engine sound in my head. Do you have oil in the engine? Does somebody hate you enough to drop nuts and bolts into your intake manifold? That would sound like tick tacks. BIG GIANT tick tacks, but tick tacks nonetheless.
There should be a bolt at the top of the alternator that allows it to tilt away from the engine. Loosen (but do not remove) this bolt and tilt the alternator out. You may have to loosen the pivot bolt at the bottom, and you may need to CAREFULLY lever the alternator away from the engine to get the belt tight enough. The other possible solution to this problem is to lube the belt with 'drylube' or something similar, and this should be your first fix unless you are sure that the belt is loose. Having the belt too tight will cause other, more expensive problems.
Well, for starters, your problem got posted under 1985 Oldsmobile 98 - then you said it was a 95 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Elite (HUGE difference between 85 and 95)...then it would be REALLY nice to know which engine we are talking about.
I'll just go with what you said last: 1995 Oldsmobile Regency Elite (Two engine possibilities)
If you have the 3.8L Supercharged engine (VIN CODE "1") it is on the left side of the engine near the oil filter.
If you have the non-supercharged 3.8L (VIN CODE "K") there are TWO of them. One is near the oil filter and the other one is in about the same location on the other side of the engine block.
Please also note that MOST fault codes for knock sensors are not caused by the knock sensors themselves. (they do fail, but it is very rare.) Usually there is either a wiring problem to the knock sensor, or the engine has internal problems causing a "knocking" or "ticking" noise which causes the engine computer to "think" that there is a problem with pre-detonation causing an "ignition ping". The code sets when the computer has retarded the ignition timing as far as it can and the "knock" or "ping" does not go away....usually it doesn't go away because it is not caused by ignition timing. The knock sensor is just doing its job and reporting the knock. It does not know the difference between a knock caused by ignition and a knock caused by internal engine problems.
This is normally the starter/solenoid in the first stage of failure.....Or it could just be a bad connection.or relay...Check battery cables for tightness...If they are tight disconnect negative cable and check wiring holddown nuts at starter solenoid and starter ground with socket ratchet...DONT overtorque....just make sure they are tight......A lot of times the smallest wire at the solenoid will be the loose one...It should be 8mm.nut holding wire....It is very easy to overtorque starter nuts so be very careful and only snug tight...Reconnect battery...If all seems to be clean and tight your problem should lie at the starter.......I have seen them have the same problem but take a very long time before they actually completely stop working.....It is best to change it before it completely fails leaving you stranded......But first check all wiring...Also some have a seperate solenoid mounted under hood at firewall...With an assistant find exactly where tick noise is coming from...It should be at starter or firewall solenoid....Some relays will make a very small noise as well...................
...................Hope this helps............................Metalpoet
Connect battery>>>>try unlocking the vehicle from the inside (door closed), using the power un/lock button. Make sure the key is set to the "on" position. Most of the time this works. If this doesnt work, try using the key to lock and unlock the door through the key hole. Hopefully this helps!!
Your car being 15 years old, your better of replacing the Sway bar end link. You can pick them up at Auto Zone, Napa, and Parts Source, the urethane bushing kits go for around $35.00 for both sides. The urethane bushing kits last at life time and when removing the old end link, try tightening the nut till they snap the bolt which is easier then to remove the nut from the bolt. It takes about 30 min to replace both sides and make sure you measure both end link at the end of the job to make sure they are equal in length. Good luck and don't forget the lock tight.
it may need a lifter or valve adjustment when cold they will tick or knock depending on how loose or worn out then when it warms up they swell with heast and noise stops. after adjusting or replacing it will stop making noise
it very well can be that depending on the severity of the ticking noise, if it sounds like its coming from the top of the engine, place your hand on it only when you first start it up and if you can feel it knocking slightly and if the noise dies away once warmed up id say its your lifter, if its a heavier knocking rather than a ticking and comes from below or bottom end of engine it may be big end bearing, not good. try putting some engine treatment through the engine oil and make sure you run it in as directions state then change the oil and filter and see if that helps :)