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The check engine light means there is a trouble code stored in the car's computer. The first thing is to get this read out, to home in on the problem. Autozone will do this for free I believe.
It is not uncommon for the oil light to flicker at idle when hot, as long as the pressure rises OK at revs. Get an oil pressure reading done by temporarily replacing the pressure sender unit with a pressure gauge, and you can then tell if there is a problem in that area.
check Fuel pressure regulator by disconnecting the vacuum hose. Didn't say what year you have, yet the timing belt can also cause this as I had similar problems on an 87 and the belts were loose and floppy causing erratic firing/idling. A little easy trick to check timing belts without taking any parts off to get at timing belts, is (and no one knows about this one, hee) with a timing light!
This is not necessarily a problem. If the oil is at correct level and viscosity grade, and the light always goes out with a small (not large) rise in revs, then it could possibly be OK. An engine does not need much oil pressure at idle, say 600-800 RPM.
It could also be a faulty sender unit on the engine, a worn oil pump, or a faulty oil pressure relief valve on the oil pump or in the filter.
To be sure, get an oil pressure gauge fitted to the sender outlet hole, and see what the reading is at various revs. If there is indeed a pressure problem by the gauge, try first a new oil filter. If not it is probably a faulty sender unit.
Hi there: It sounds like it could be oil pressure sending unit. I would check the connection on the sending unit. Below are the procedures for checking the sending unit, If it checks out good I would have a mechanical gauge set up to measure the pressure.
TESTINGTo test the normally closed oil lamp circuit, disengage the locking connector and measure the resistance between the switch terminal (terminal for the wire to the warning lamp) and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read 0 ohms.To test the sending unit, measure the resistance between the sending unit terminal and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read an open circuit (infinite resistance).Start the engine.Once again, test each terminal against the metal housing:The oil switch terminal-to-housing circuit should read an open circuit if there is oil pressure present.The sending unit-to-housing circuit should read between 15-80 ohms, depending on the engine speed, oil temperature and oil viscosity.To test the oil pressure sender only, rev the engine and watch the ohms reading, which should fluctuate slightly (within the range of 15-80 ohms) as rpm increases.If the above results were not obtained, replace the sending unit/switch with a new one.
It sounds as if the clearance that the bearings normally run in have been surpassed and need to be replaced. Higher engine revs will supply extra oil which will overcome any small discrepencies but constant running at this stage will result in faster degradation of all engine components concerned resulting in a more expensive repair. Shes basically worn out.
this is a common sign of a bad oil pressure sender, but could also be caused by low oil pressure, a sender is cheap,but it"s always smart to do a pressure test first with a mechanical gauge,you can obtain a mechanical gauge from most automotive parts stores. then you"ll have to locate and remove the oil pressure sender and install the gauge you bought. make your test at warm idle you should have at least 25 psi below that you may very possible have worn engine bearings making it impossible for the engine to have any better oil pressure at idle. if you have 25 or greater psi of pressure at idle replace your oil sender and you"ll be back on the road
OPERATION The oil pressure sender/switch relays the engine oil pressure to the dash gauge.
To test the normally closed oil pressure lamp circuit, disengage
the locking connector and measure the resistance between the switch
terminal (terminal for the wire to the warning lamp) and the metal
housing. The ohmmeter should read 0 ohms.
To test the sending unit, measure the resistance between the
sending unit terminal and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read
an open circuit (infinite resistance).
Start the engine.
Once again, test each terminal against the metal housing:
The oil switch terminal-to-housing circuit should read an open circuit if there is oil pressure present.
The sending unit-to-housing circuit should read between 15-80
ohms, depending on the engine speed, oil temperature and oil viscosity.
To test the oil pressure sender only, rev the engine and watch
the ohms reading, which should fluctuate slightly (within the range of
15-80 ohms) as rpm increases.
If the above results were not obtained, replace the sending unit/switch with a new one.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION(see Figure 1)
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If necessary for access, raise and safely support the vehicle.
If necessary, drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
Detach the switch electrical connector.
Remove the switch.
Fig. 1: Location of the oil pressure switch - 1995 vehicle shown, others similar
Coat the first two or three threads with sealer. Install the switch and tighten until snug. Engage the electrical lead.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Fill the crankcase with the proper type and amount of engine oil.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Hope helps with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.
That sounds like you bought big problems. Oil ights indicate low oil pressure= BIG BUCKS. I would have a qualified repair shop check it out, A shop that specializes in BMW. If you are lucky, maybe the oil sender is just bad. They can also check out the Ck eng light. But the oil light is priority one.
There may be a loose wire or the gauge or sending unit may be going bad. The first thing I would do is to hook up a temporary oil pressure gauge, not using the old one at all. With this watch gauge while driving and see what readings you get. If the readings still jump around you have a pump that is getting weak and failing, If that is the case the pump should be replaced, but with high milage you may consider rebuilding the entire engine. If the readings stay normal start checking for a loose wire at gauge or sender. Then check sender, then gauge and replace as needed.