The 2002 ford focus lx starts great but when it got below 0, it still started good, but after a minute it dies, and then wont start back up. I had it towed, the mechanic changed the spark plugs, it ran fine and 3 weeks later when below 0 weahter hit again, it did the same thing. Towed it again, they put thinner oil in it, started good, then.. died. I had it towed again to another mechanic, he had a high end scanner and the only thing he could find was a restricted exhaust when it gets to 4 below, which he discovered was a well known problem for the 2002 focus, any insight ??
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
hi, might wanna check the atternator ,check the belt make sure it still on .over time they get old and loose. if still on you could do a test, while the car is on diconnect the ground wire off, if the car stays on the atternator is good. if the cars turns off , you got a bad att. thanks hope been some help
LOAD TEST THE BAT.SHOULD HAVE 6OO CCA FOR 15 SEC.IF GOOD CHECK CONNECTIONS IF YOUR TIMING BELT HAD STRIPPED TEETH YOU MAY HAVE BENT A VALVE..AT THIS POINT TRY ROTATING THE ENGINE 2 COMPLETE TURNS AT THE CRANK PULLEY USING A WRENCH OR SOCKET..TO MAKE SURE IT'S NOT LOCKED UP..
Your battery is dying. It is also possible that its the alternator but if the battery is original it is almost certainly the battery and it will likely do it again until the battery is replaced. The clicking sound you heard is the starter solenoid trying to start the car (but failing). The reason it started later is because the internal temperature of the battery had risen a enough to allow the solenoid to "pull in" and start the car. Any autoparts store can test the battery/alternater for free and confirm which is the problem.
i have had the same problem (read article 26 jan 09 by terrytrout) i have now solved the problem. i got a fuel rail pressure censor from the scrapyard and for two days now the car has been running perfect. good luck.
you can use the ford fault codes to check with out going to a dealer this may reset the poss ecu fault easy check system without a laptop ?? as long as you have a digital trip before you start your car press and hold the trip reset button turn the key to start your car and keep the button pressed within 10 seconds the clock will show 0000 when this appears each time you press the trip button it will self test differant systems full dash clock sweep all warning lights engine rpm alternator charge engine core temp fuel flow and will list fault codes which can be checked on this site atleast it will save you afew quid/euros dollers on ford checking it for you and you will know what if anything needs doing i hope this helps