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Remove center hub cap. Remove large nut behind hub cap.Lift wheel assembly off ground. Remove wheel. Remove brake calipher assembly by taking out larger bolts from back of calipher. Remove brake rotor. Pull axle toward middle of vehicle, you may have to tap axle end with small hammer being careful not to damage threads on end of axle. Remove three bolts from back, bearing housing should come out to the front.
Fixing a brake line is not hard, but first the question is where is the line broke... If the line is broke in the rear of the car or truck sometimes it is best to just replace that short peice of line with the screw in fittings on both ends.. On the rear of most cars and trucks the line runs to a tee and out of both sides of the tee a shorter line runs to each rear brake...You can find them at a ford dealer and the line will be bent to the shape of the line you are replacing with the two fitting on both ends.. sometimes its much cheaper to buy from auto zone or advanced auto parts..They also sell lines with fittings in bulk, so if you know how long and the size of the fitting they will give you a peice of straight line with the fittings on the ends and you have to put the bends in the line where needed... NUMBER 2 If the the line is broke on the long straight run from the front of the car or truck that runs back to the tee theses can be fixed with a compresion fitting.. This works great if you only have a pin hole in your line and cost only a few dollars... You will have to cut the line on both sides of the pin hole about a 1/8 inch and slide nut cap on first and next slide on the line ball on the brake line this has to be done on both sides of the broken line.. next is the center peice of the compresion fitting, gently pull the line apart enough to slide the center peice overthe cut line, now the same has to be done to the other side ... Once the the center peice is in place on the cut line slide line balls and nut caps to the center peice start to thread your nut caps on to the center peice tighten..
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
Remove the wheel and take off your brake caliper. Once you have the wheel off, you will see a dust cap in the center of the wheel. Remove the dust cap by using a pair of channel locks, don't use something to pry it loose as this will cause it to leak grease later. Once you have the dust cap off you will see inside a castle nut held in place with a cotter pin. Remove the pin and unscrew the nut. This will allow the rotor and bearing to come out. Replace the bearing with the new one using a high temp grease to grease them.... IMPORTANT: when you grease the new bearings make sure to grease them thoroughly. Put a glob of grease in the palm of your hand and slowly dab the sides of the new bearings in the grease (this will allow the bearings to be greased on the inside).... Put back together as you found it. NOTE: When tightening the castle nut, tighten it down tight and then release it a quarter turn back before before inserting the pin to hold it back in place. Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
If you have 6 bolts going around the center (manual lock in/lock out) hub, you are going to be there a while. The center hub needs to come off, and ALL of the internal wheel bearings need to come out. The whole locking hub must be removed in order get the rotor off. This is NOT an easy job, and you need a special tool to loosen/tightem the wheel bearings. Figure 2 hrs per side if you have all of the proper tools & skill level.