On the freeway there was a clunk and bump and a metal wheel rolled to the side of the freeway. I stopped and picked it up. It goes on the front of the crank right up front. It is part of the route for the serpentine belt so I lost the power steering/alt/cooling fan/etc. I got it home, but I do not see how the wheel is attached. Do I have to have it pressed on? Can I hammer it in place? Please do not tell me to take it to a shop as I just got back to work and can not afford it...
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Re: Wheel on front of engine fell off
If there are no holes in it for bolts and you dont have a press then im afraid your going to have to take it to a shop. but befor you get to upset. go to your local autozone or advanced auto and get a repair manual for your car. they are usually about 15 bucks and should help you. good luck Jason
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dose it speed up and down when you drivings, it could be you have caught the splash guard onto the brake disc and its catching, if its the wheel baring you need to jack up the side with the wheel still on and turn wheel round check for the sound if now sound, grab wheel at 9 to 3 and shack the wheel feeling for movement should be just a tiny bit with no sound. then do the same at 12 and six if there is a lot of movement the bearing will need replacing same if it makes a clunking sound.
check you springs you may have a broken spring also jack the wheel up one at a time and check the bearing hands 9 and 3 pull side to side and then up and down at 12 to 6 any excessive movement and the bearing needs changing. do this to both wheels. also check the anti roll bar rubbers all 4 of them check for splits or wear this can also make a clunking sound on bumps of any size. failing all these you may need to have your disc's checked as they may have become warped can happen if you use them alot ie hills, sudden stopping
Is the clunking form the body reaction to the bumps or is through the transmission. What ever sounds like some rubber is missing. Look at frame to body mounts, spring to frame mounts and anti roll bar mounts, basically anything that isolates something that moves from something that should be solid. On the transmission look at rubber prop couplings and universal spiders along with gearbox and engine mounts. Finally check the shock absorber mounts for wear
If you aren't afraid of jacking up the vehicle, you can test to see where the problem is coming from. Jack the vehicle up by the pinch well (most newer cars have grooves cut out or that can be popped out behind the front wheels). When the wheel is in the air, try moving it side to side, then up and down. Excessive side to side movement indicates a tie rod end, up and down indicates a ball joint, and all around indicates a wheel bearing which would also be a cause for the clicking sound you are hearing.
Most auto shops will check this for you free of charge when you get an oil change, since they're trying to sell you things anyway.
Check the macpherson struts to ensure they are not loose. One way to check is visually in the engine compartment. Check the top of the struts to ensure the nuts are not loose. Another is to raise the side of the van where you hear the clunk. Raise it so the wheel is off the ground. Grasp and shake the strut to see if it is loose. The struts should not be loose, but you never know. As the strut is certainly ivnolved in bumps and rotates when the wheel turns, I would check there since you have already explored the bushings and links.
the light is on.........let's see, where you having problems with clunking noises in the front, now or before when or not in 4 wheel drive? If so sounds like cv/axle shats/joints. Last time you used 4 wheel, was there a big clunk, just once? Is there an ocasional clunk when going over bumps? If so, sounds like Ujoint. I don't belive chevys use vaccum for 4 wheel drives systems at all.