Racket pinion and tire rod problem

check different shops
The average cost for a Mazda Miata MX-5 rack and pinion replacement is between $837 and $907. Labor costs are estimated between $264 and $333 while parts are priced between $573 and $574. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.

If there are any rack leaks it has to be replaced

Pull back the inner tie rod boot & check for leaking

Obviously any sensor or switch that leaks or hose, you
just replace that

We can not see the the issue from the internet,sorry

If you hit a curb hard enough to break the rack and pinion, then you have also damaged some other parts in your front end. You need to take the car to an alignment shop and have it checked over. You could be looking at repalceing ball joints, tie rod ends, struts or even control arms. Hope this helps.

Quessing,about $250 for rack,$40 for tie rod end,Four hours labor with alignment at $65 per. $550.00 tatal

The tie rod is part of the steering mechanism. If you replace these they will not be exactly the same as the old ones which may have changed shape over time etc... Here is a very good site for info relating to your car and helps with all the technical stuff... http://news.carjunky.com/how_stuff_works/what-is-a-tie-rod-abc170.shtml

have a look on the other side then compare the part on a site such as ebay

that person is correct. remove the wheel and look at the tie rods. this vehicle uses a rack and pinion system so look at the rod connecting the rack to the outer tie rod. you will more than likely endup replacing the inner tie rod. then take it to an alignment shop and get it aligned.

The tie rods are part of the steering system not connected to the battery. If you have an estimate from a shop it should show a battery on a different line than a tie rod or tie rod end. Tires vary greatly in price depending on size, use and brand. Many tire dealer websites hae do-it-yourself tire pricing allowing you to choose different options.

This is a very common issue with this car.The problem of the Ford Taurus spewing powersteering fluid out of the cap is caused by a loose nut on the passenger side of the steering rack. This not only allows fluid to leak past and fill the rubber boots up on the tie rods/steering rack, (the right hand side fills too, because of an air vent equalizer tube that connects both sides), but it also allows the system to **** air which causes the foaming and spewing from the pumps cap/dip stick.

The cure is to jack up and secure the car, remove the passenger front wheel.
There is a rubber accordian style boot on the tie rod end. Use a super long flat screwdriver to pry under the far side clamp that secures it to the inner part of the rack and break it off. Now use a pliers to squeeze the smaller clamp on the side closest to you and slide it off and all the way to the end towards you.

Slide the whole rubber boot as far as you can towards you so you can see the large round nut that is inside the end of the rack. You'll know this is the problem when fluid pours out of the boot.
The tie rod goes through the center of this nut. The nut has four holes around it on the face of it. I assume they used a spanner tool to install this at the factory, but there's no room for a tool while the rack is on the car, so you'll have to manufacture a long instrument yourself.
I purchased about a 3 foot long narrow metal rod from a hardware store, then I used an angle grinder to shape one end of it into a blunt cone shape that would fit into one of the holes. It's awkward to do, but using it on all angles avoiding the brake line and wheel rotor you can tighten this nut by hitting the rod with a hammer. The nut will turn about 1/8th of a turn, then re-angle your rod into the next hole above the one you just did tightening the nut to the right (clockwise).

The nut on my car was loose by three full turns. The driver's side of the rack has a different setup, you don't need to try that side, the passenger side is the only side that is affected. Once you have this nut good and tight, I used a zip tie to clamp the big end of the rubber boot back on the rack, then pushed the rest of the accordian boot back into it's original place and put the smaller compression clamp back on the end closest to you.

Put your wheel back on, fill your ps pump back up with fluid and start the car, turning the wheel back and forth to purge the air from the system. It'll still be foamy for a while, but keep shutting the car off, let the bubbles disperse, add more fluid if needed, etc.
I learned this from another forum where many, many posters had tried this and it worked for them also.
Good luck!

If the leakage is coming from the bellows on tie rod the best fix is rack & pinion replacement. Rebuilt racks are often less expensive than new. Get 2-3 estimates before you commit.