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ernest valdez Posted on Dec 26, 2012

2005 vw jetta 2.0L bbw engine code: installed new timing belt according to engine marks furnished by this website. tried to turn two times as directed and only turns 1/4 turn then stops?

Makes scrapping noise as if something jamming inside. is this interferance engine. because according to timing belt box-identifies this engine as being interferance ????

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 272 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 28, 2008

SOURCE: 2000 VW Jetta 1.8 T Timing belt installation

Look at the diagram in the manual that shows you the parts that the belt goes round. One will be the tension adjuster. Slacken off the adjuster as much as posible then tighten it in position until you have the belt in place and all your timing marks are lined up. Then slowly untighten the adjuster and set the belt tension as per the manual.

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Anonymous

  • 379 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: vw jetta timing belt problems

1) the small gear would be the tensioner gear . firing order see pic .
49c533a.jpg
also this may be a helpful link .
moz-screenshot-2.jpghttp://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b022b

more pics
c5d7b50.jpg
4442614.jpg
f4e0e10.jpg
dc8371c.jpg
thats everything i found on the web , hope that will get you going .
J5

Anonymous

  • 6784 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2009

SOURCE: clicking noise inside dash board 2003 vw jetta

the relay is going bad. its freezing up. this will sometimes happen when it gets stuck in the on position.

Bill Hackett

  • 383 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: TIming Belt 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T

lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Good Luck

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: Timing Marks on VW Jetta GL 1995 2.0 Litres

timing belt marks

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Here are a few diagrams to line up crank and cam, note there is a tool used with valve cover removed and slides into rear of cam to lock into place but as long as you hold it in the correct location with a wrench you will be okay and the crank you will need to put lower cover on and use lower pulley to line marks up and then double check the mark at the rear on the transmission, there are two diagrams i sent one is for automatic transmission and the other manual , i labeled them, the tensoiner, i assume you know how that must be done , if not let me know, the pointer must be in the right location. after timing belt is on you will spin crank two complete times and check the alignment marks if they are off try again. note you must not assume it is lined up spin crank to check.12_25_2012_7_59_29_pm.png12_25_2012_7_59_40_pm.png12_25_2012_7_59_50_pm.png12_25_2012_8_00_03_pm.png12_25_2012_8_00_16_pm.png
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Can't find timing marks to install new timing belt on 1999 vw jetta 2.0

Sorry for the severe delay.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.

Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with Marks for the Camshaft and Crankshaft that you will need. It also has schematics on cover bolt locations; tools, and procedures.

Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!


http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1999/make/volkswagen/model/jetta/1999_volkswagen_jetta_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm
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Timing Belt Manual

WARNING Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! The A4 and Passat model utilize an interference-type, non-free-wheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and expensive) engine damage. The recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is at least every 6 years or 60,000-90,000 miles (96,000-144,000 km), depending on vehicle usage and engine type.
NOTE If removed and reinstalled, the timing belt must be installed in the same rotational direction as removed.

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Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING Do NOT turn the engine or camshaft with the timing belt removed. The pistons will contact the valves and cause internal engine damage.


2.0L (9A, ABA) Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover(s).
  2. Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft to TDC of No. 1 piston. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned with the mark on the inner timing belt cover or the edge of the cylinder head.
  3. With the distributor cap removed, the rotor should be pointing toward the No. 1 mark on the rim of the distributor housing. On 8 valve engines, the notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
  4. Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt.
  5. Slide the timing belt from the sprockets
6f72092.jpg

Fig. Adjusting the belt tension on a 2.0L 8 valve

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Fig. Remove the timing belt cover


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Fig. Align the timing marks


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Fig. Locate the tensioner


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Fig. Loosen the tensioner bolt


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Fig. Mark the belts direction of rotation


To install:
  1. Check the alignment of the timing marks. On 16-valve engines, the mark on the tooth should align with the mark on the rear belt cover.
  2. Install the new timing belt and tension the belt so it can be twisted 90° at the middle of it's longest section, between the camshaft and intermediate sprockets.
  3. Recheck the alignment of the timing marks and, if correct, turn the engine 2 full revolutions to return to TDC of No. 1 piston. Recheck belt tension and timing marks. Readjust as required. Torque the tensioner nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  4. Install the belt cover and accessory drive belts.
  5. If the belt is too tight, there will be a growling noise that rises and falls with engine speed.

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