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Was it running before you worked on it? If so, double check your work.
Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Did you check good voltage and ground for fuel pump motor at the wiring connector?
If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, I don't care if the pump is new, check fuel pressure, anyway. Also, check fuel injector pulse. Only crank the starter motor a few seconds at a time, let it cool off.
Are there any applicable trouble codes? How long since over-all tune-up?
I think I have the solution for ya. In a lot of GM's the security fails. and when it does it will not allow car to start. I know a module that can bypass it and for a very reasonable price and u can install yourself! check it out and see if this is it
Cranks but no start condition-do below to determine whether it's fuel or spark issue:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the
engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do
you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,
check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel
pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing
or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot
the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.
HI, ok lets address each issue as your asked 1. Timing belt: since this engine uses a timing chain and it runs fine for the most part its unlikely to be the cause. 2. Ignition module: well the module not only sends the signal for spark timing but it also uses another signal for the fuel injectors. Since these ignition modules are very sensitive to heat the module may fail only when it is hot. So yes it could be the ignition module. 3. A fuel problem: Because you have fuel that sprays a foot high does not mean it has proper pressure. think of it as a garden hose the water flows out the end of the hose normally but when you place your thumb over the hose it squirts harder. You are trying to release the fuel from a much larger fuel rail threw a small shrader valve. Electric fuel pumps are little motors turning at very high rpms. when they get hot after use they draw more amperage and produce less volume and pressure. So yes fuel could be the issue. 3. Injectors clogged: Your right unlikely but you may want to do a resistance check of the injectors while cold then one while hot. You may find even one shorting out after it gets hot and this will shut down the whole bank of them. 4. Crank sensor: the crank sensor sends a pulse to the DIS module the ECM then controls the demand for fuel and timing. These crank sensors are prone to cracking and letting oil wick into the sensor apply heat and it can raise the resistance and make the sensor fail till it cools. So yes the crank sensor can cause this type of no start. 5. Cam sensor: no this model 3.1 did not use a cam sensor. 6. Intake gaskets: this would have to be one very large leak when hot. you could try pouring oil over the intake gasket area while cranking and see if it fires over. The oil is should be heavy and thick enough to seal it for a short time or show where it sucks it in. a few things you over looked are the importance that the temp sensor and TPS sensor play during a hot start. If the ECM thinks that the engine is cold it uses injector pulse like a choke on a carburetor. Good luck on your adventure I hope this has helped.
Ensure the battery cable are not damaged and are tightly connected. Sometimes the cable ends become loose due to corrosion and wear thin.
Also try replacing the Mass Air Flow Sensor, it's the switch looking thing, to the right of the air filter box; I think it runs about $6-$10s. Good luck.