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What do you mean when you say you fixed the cable. It sounds like the cable broke and you replaced it. Is that correct. If so, did you adjust the free play in the clutch pedal to the manufacturers specification. If you have not done this correctly the clutch will either not disengage, or no engage properly. From your description it appears as though there is n free play and hence the clutch is staying disengaged even when you release the clutch pedal. If this is the case, then try lengthening the cable until the clutch pedal moves with say 25 mm of free movement before anything happens, and try again.
that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse
A clutch pedal normally does go all the way to the floor. If you can shift gear without a crunch, it is disengaging OK.
The loss of power could mean the clutch plate is worn and is slipping when engaged. There is a crude test for this. Start the engine and idle it. Apply the footbrake firmly, depress the clutch and put the gearbox in 3rd. Let the clutch out slowly. If the engine does not immediately stall, the clutch needs replacing.
you meant dis-engage im sure.
pedal up is engaged,
pedal at floor dis-engages it.
my guess, is the clutch drags unless i push the clutch pedal 100%
to the floor.
1: bad cable is 90% cause. non last this long.
2: no free play is way too loose.
3: broken lever on the pedal top. caused by #1
It jump because the clutch disc itself is good, but the clutch is not engaging-the pedal is not making the clutch engage. When it does, then you can shift without grinding, then you can shift period. Clutch pedal operates a cable or it operates a hydraulic system-they both, which ever one you have, move the clutch fork on the transmission bell housing just a bit to cause the clutch to disengage the transmission from the engine's flywheel...so you can shift, see, easy, smooth shifts, no problem, no grinding. Your clutch itself is okay, the pedal is just not operating it.
Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely. Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
If the clutch in your car is hydralic there is no way to adjust that type of clutch. That you describe the clutch as being hard to push and that you have to have the clutch "right down on the floor to engage a gear" is an indication that the clutch is worn and needs to be replaced. If the clutch in your car is pushed by a cable, the cable might be adjustable and if that is the case you might get a few more months of use from the car, but the fix is still the same, you will need to get a new clutch put in your car.