I have a 99 328I. I start the car in the morning and the car warms up and the temp guage is at centre. I will get cold air for a while untill I drive for a few KM ( or Miles) and then I will start to get some warn air through. Once I stop the car at a red light or stop sign the warn air changes to cold again until i start to drive.
What is causing this, I checked the coolant and it is good, thermostate is working, what could be causing this any help is appriciated.
I had this exact same problem on a 99 328i also. It would heat up when I drove fast, but when i was going slow or at a light I would only get cold air. Cooling worked fine. Finally took it to a mechanic. They replaced the water pump and the thermostat and the problem went away. Although personally, I saw the old water pump and it looked great. I think it was probably the new thermostat that did the trick. But i had both replaced and the problem definitely went away.
I have the same problem start with my 2004 Honda Civic Si today. I checked the coolant and it looks fine. I can see it being the thermostat, but a water pump runs of a belt, doesn't it? That either seizes and stops or it works, I would think, so I'm wondering how the water pumo coild be the problem?
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so you want more heat in extreme cold? block part of the radiator off with a cardbpoard sheet..not more than half of it.. old truckers trick.. some school busses use a snap-on grille cover..it stops the very cold air from cooling the radiator too much and not warming the motor enough to be of any good..
i see answers to other questions here except the question asked about no heat in a 325 xi 2001 blower works great fluid is full no leaks,fuses are fine,get a lil heat while at a stand still but as soon as you drive cold air only temp on max 91, engine temp right in the middle takes about 8 mins for temp gauge to reach the middle can anyone help with this..PLEASE !!!!!!
It sounds like your thermostat is sticking. You can tell when it sticks when your temp gauge spikes high and your blower won't blow heat and when it finally opens your temp gauge goes back down and you have heat again.
Had a simular problem with a 318 myself, they are notorious to get air locked after replacing the thermostat, should have a blead screw on the main water hose, start the car and get up to temp then slowly undo the screw until water starts seeping, should be bubbly, persist with topping up the water until water runs clear, do not drive the car untill air lock is clear or it could blow the head gasket£££££ and or radiator.
have you chg. any thing lately like thermostate? added any coolent to system? if not, thermostate could be stuck in the open position. if stuck open, setting still, it will throw heat, but moving coolent flows to fast and does not get a chance to get hot. if you did chg. thermostate it could have a air pocket in the system. and also adding coolent can create an air pockets too. you will know this when your traveling down the road and temp guage fluctuates up and down. witch means air in system.
Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at tarusclub.com. After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.