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had this problem which took a couple different directions. First was very simple...the control knob was turning on the shaft,, it had rounded off. Put some glue on it and worked for a year until problem like you described arose again. Replaced all components like you did but had intermittent blowing. Replaced blower again which solved problem...for now anyway...defective NEW blower.
Your Blower motor is going bad drawing to much amperage if you keep replaceing the fuse you can melt the connector where it plugs into the motor and make it harder to repair because now you have to repiar the wiring. You should also replace the Blower motor resistor when you replace the Blower motor . They work together and somtimes when the blower motor goes bad it damages the resistor internally and fails right after you put the new motor in .
I would disconnect your blower motor resistor then try fuse again, if it does'nt blow then it is either blower motor or resistor,these resistors are common for going bad/and or blower motor. Good luck let me know if you need more info or if this didn't fix it, I will research it more for you
Have you replaced the blower resistor . some times they can cause the fuse to blow . You may need a muiltmeter to test the current draw on the blower motor circuit. the draw should be less then half of the rated fuse .( 20 amp fues draw is less then 10 amps) You did not say but does the blower work on high only or the lower speeds with out blowing the fuse ? if it does work on low or high with out blowing the fuse i would replace the blower resistor
disconnect the blower motor. if the fuse is ok then, the blower motor is bad. if the coolant leak is on the passenger floor, you may have a heater core leaking, although you may also smell a sweet odor from it.
More than likely the fan motor its self is short to ground try to unhook the wires to the fan motor and install a new fuse and then turn the fan on with the wires removed and if the fuse is still good you know it is the fan motor its self