We had our 2003 T&C mini van in for repair. They replaced Master cylinder. 1 1/2 weeks later, brakes lose pressure, petal goes almost to floor. Back to garage, they found they had installed faulty Master cylinder. 1 week later, petal back to floor again. Bleed brakes again. so after this 4th trip, the petal is back down again, low pressure. Has anyone had this problem? Our garage is at a loss as to why this keeps happening. He has checked the 2nd master cylinder and it appears okay. If anyone has any Ideas, we'd appreciate it. Thank you
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Re: New Mastercylinder/brakes still lose pressure
ITS THE MASTER CYLINDER AGAIN.More than likely they are using a re manufactured master cylinders. Get a new one from MOPAR-(CHRYSLER) that will take care of your problem. Trust me I have had the same problem with a similar vehicle in the past in my shop. Good Luck, thank for using FIX YA
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their is an old trick. have someone help you have them pump the brake about 5 time allowing the pedal come up each time have them hold the pedal down as you loosen the brake line at the wheel cylinder the tighten it up before the pedal come up and repeat till the brake feels good,keep an eye on the mastercylinder level
Yes it could be a bad master cylinder. But always remember when bleeding brakes. No matter what component on the brake system was changed. You ALWAYS bleed all four wheels and rule #2 ALWAYS bleed from furthest from the master cylinder first and work your way to the master cylinder. This ensures you remove all the air from the break system and not just move the air back and forth inside the lines. Try that. Hope this helps.
The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing
fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master
cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals
inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure
internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as
causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal.
The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.
Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
Open the hood and prop it up
with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted
to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger
compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the
master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the
master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
Locate the fluid-level sensor
connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they
appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the
master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip
and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
Remove the brake lines from the
master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare
nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
Remove the bolts securing the
master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts
counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder
straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your
vehicle's painted surfaces.
Verify that the rubber O-ring
seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master
cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the
studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You
may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install
the master cylinder.
Fill the master cylinder with
new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line
ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto
the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler
opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
Depress the brake pedal a number
of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no
more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by
turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect
the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
Thread the brake lines into the
proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to
approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper
press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it.
Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with
the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor.
Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting.
Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this
process on the rear port.
Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by
placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the
master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top
What is the condition of both front calipers? both rear wheel cylinders? and the complete brake lines and hoses of your van? If they are all good with no traces of leakage, then did you bleed the Mastercylinder on the bench first before installing in the van? Did you gravity bleed the 4 wheels first? did you bleed from the farthest wheel first? Are you using a new Master and not a re-built??
try replacing both master and slave cylinders at the same time. when both are removed apply brake cleaner and shop air to high pressure line running between master and slave cylinders to clear any possible cloggs. If it happens again remove your transmission and inspect clutch, bearing and linkage in bell housing for broken/binding parts.
Remove the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder,,,,
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the master to the brake booster...
Remove the master cylinder...
Install the new mastercylinder...
install the 2 bolts removed....
bleed the master with bleed kit that comes with the new master...
install the 2 brake lines..
Let me know if i can help more
Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.