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Re: no spark at plugs but spark at coil with new ign...
Check the carbon and the spring in side the distributor cup 2nd change the high tention lead from the coil to distributor 3th ignition on remuve the 2 wires from the coil check the curen 12 volts as + conect to the coil and 4th check the black wire is your - with test light then conect to the coil good luck.
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I would buy a book with the procedure to troubleshoot the ignition system. The problem could be the pickup coil in the bottom of the distributor among other things. The module uses the pickup coil to know when to fire the plugs. The computer only controls when the cylinders fire.
Did you check for spark at a plug wire or at the coil wire? Check at the coil wire,if there is spark there,the ign rotor is bad,very common to have the hot spark "drill" a hole thru the rotor to the dist shaft. Also check for play at the rotor shaft. Distruibtor bushings tend to go bad,making the trigger wheel hit the pickup coil,killing the spark.
check fuses. The coil should get 12V with IGN key in run position. Check the pickup module inside the distributer and see that the shaft turns when engine is cranked. You may need a new ign module.If spark is good at the coil, the plugs/wires are at fault.
Check to see if your getting power to the ign.control module from the ignition (with key to on position).If not ,you have an ignition problem.If there is power,it may be a bad ECM.If you can, get one from a 95 pickup that works and switch it into yours just to see if the problem stops.
I'd try an ignition module based upon what you have already replaced. Depending upon which engine you have and what month it was assembled, You could have one of several ignition systems (seems like they were using up whatever was on the shelves) any diagrams are cryptic as to any relays used etc. I'd try that, then physically begin tracing the coil power back to it's source. Actually, the car is old enough that I might even consider building my own ignition system and discarding the junk they used when they built it! But, that's somewhat complicated.
It could be that the ignition module is defective and causing this problem.If it's the original ignition module it may be time to replace it. The ignition module can be tested by your local Shucks or Auto Zone usually for free, The module when its starting to go out will work fine until it warms up, it will then quit working because the coils inside of it short out, until it cools down. If the module is completely gone there will be no spark at any time, The module is inside the distributor under the rotor held in by a couple of screws,