Chevrolets are not equipt with a fuel shut off switch, only fords. U need to find out if there is power and ground at the fuel pump. Start be listening for a buzz noise from tank when key is cycled on and off. Wires do not run under car so probably not problem. Most likey just a bad fuel pump that was just "jarred" too hard from impact. By year of car, 1996, should be due if not yet done
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Have a friend turn the key for you and listen by the fuel tank to hear if the fuel pump comes 'on'. It you don;t hear anything... you know it's not working. Get the Haynes Manual and unconnect the fuel pump and use a simple (cheap) multimeter to measure voltage to make sure it's getting power, if it is, needs a new fuel pump. If it doesn't, you'd better check the fuse and relay. Sometimes the ignition switch itself is faulty.... the fuel pump is connected directly to the ignition switch, if it's not getting power. (There are two main grounds, one at the starter and the other at the battery/fuse box... make sure they are corrosion free.) Was the new ECU synched with the VIN and odometer loaded into the memory? If not, the pro didn't do it right and the vehicle will never start until it is.
There is a fuel pump shut off switch. On that specific car I'm not too sure where it is, but you might take a look on the passenger side behind a plastic door on the kick panel (where the passenger would put his/her feet.). It could also be behind a door in the trunk. The operators manual should have the exact location.
You will have to check, at the starter, for power to the SMALL wire on the starter solenoid (which is on the starter) when turning the ignition switch to start. If there is power to this wire ( usually purple ) and power at the LARGE cable ( from the battery ) at the starter end.....you need a starter.
If you do not have power at the small wire at the solenoid with the key in start position and battery power is OK.....check the safety neutral switch.Moving the shifter around a little can sometimes allow the car to start if the neutral switch is worn.
A new battery does not always mean a fully charged battery. Try a boost from another car before testing the starter for power.
The battery cables need to be clean and tight....and check the ground to the engine as well.
Everything else may work OK with bad connections,they don't use the power the starter needs to turn the engine over.
Sounds like a serious short and or blown fuse. Check battery voltage. Move on to underhood fuse block. Check all fuses. Move on to cabin fuse block. Check all fuses. Check fuel cut-off switch. Reset switch. If you still have the problem and the battery is good than you have a short in your starter, alternator , or fuel pump. I won't go into lighting cause I figure you can tell a bad bulb from a good one. If your battery voltage is 12v + with the engine off your ok. If you can start the engine, check the voltage at the battery again, it should now be around 14v. If not , go to the positive terminal on your alternator and check the voltage there. If you read 14+ at the alternator and not at the battery , then the wiring in that circuit needs to be changed. A quick alternator test is to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery while the engine is running. If the car dies then your alt is bad. If you read lower than 12v on your battery. disconnect it, add water unless its maintenance free., charge it on a charger or preferably get a new one. Go and feel your starter for excessive heat. A short will also heat up your negative battery terminal
Sounds like the auto shut down relay. Located somewhere in the front grille/bumper area. Relay triggers on impact to shut down all power in order to prevent fires etc. Great idea but can cause exactly the frustration you are having if you don't know it's there!!