Re: how hard is it to replace a 2002 lancers motor mounts
I bought all 4 motor mounts for my 2002 lancer. I replaced all of them except the rear mount near the firewall. The back nuts are difficult to get off because the sway bar is in the way. I have spent a lot of time using differant kinds of wrenches, PB blaster,surfing you tube videos, surfing the internet. I tried removing the sway bar but the bushing on the drivers side has a nut that is almost impossible to get to and I'm thinking I will have to remove the strut to get to that 12 mm nut. The nuts on the front are not bad. You need long extensions for one, and the other can be gotten with a socket. I had to walk away from this project. I just can't get that rear mount off. I believe I will have to remove the drivers side strut and sway bar bushings to get to the rear nuts on the mount. Might as well replace the struts and bushings.That rear mount is a nightmare.
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The caliper is probably in good order. But rust is taking hold.Jack up the car,remove the wheel, and take off the two bolts holding onto the caliper. You can hang the caliper on the strut spring. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE HOSE. Now remove the small brake pad sliders from the caliper mount and using a file remove all the rust that is underneath. In older cars when rust forms under the pad sliders it jams up the calipers making the brakes over heat. If you take off two more bolts you can clean the rust off the caliper mount at your work bench. Assembly is in reverse order and do not neglect to clean the rust off the caliper mount on the other wheel also.
bent rim, tires out of balance, worn cv axle, bad wheel bearing, warped brake rotor, bad tire. Change that wheel to the rear, and see if the vibration moves with the wheel. Depending on the vibration, could be a motor/transmisson mount.
I have a '03 Lancer that had the exact same problem. I pretty much had it down to a formula based on temp., humidity, cloudiness, etc. as to when the AC would work or not. I took it to a couple of shops and they couldn't figure it out. I finally took it to the dealer and they quoted about $1000 to fix, said "no way." Anyway, it turns out that both the AC clutch coil and AC thermostat needed replacing. I found a shop that fixed me up for less than $350. Works like brand new again. Hope that helps and good luck.
I think you might need to ask someone to throttle up the car and you look underneath to try locating the rattling noise. Don't forget that this model runs the exaust pipe in front of the motor so it might be an exaust rattle as well??
sounds more like a wheel bearing,jack the car up and support with axle stands,then grab the front left wheel at both sides and shake it hard.then grab it at the top and bottom and shake it hard.if a knocking can be felt through the wheel then its most likely a wheel bearing.repeat the test for the rear wheel.also with the vehicle jacked up,spin the wheel and put your ear next to it,if it makes a dry whirring or grinding sound as it spins,this is a symptom of a worn wheel bearing