My heater is blowing hot air even on cold setting or with ac on

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.

1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
   
   
2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system

• the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
• the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
• the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
• the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
• the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants

1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

SOURCE: Heater blows cold, and fan switch only works on 4 and 5

working on 4 and 5 speed that the resistor that broken cold air you got to move the selector to see the motor that move the trap hot and cold sometime when the motor was not move to the hot side for a long time its jam the motor on the passager side under dash put to hot and gently tap the motor tanks pierre

SOURCE: ford ka heater blows hot air all the time

Taurus does not use a heater control valve. It runs coolant thru the heater core constantly. You may have a temp blend door actuator problem or a plugged up heater core is also very common. Feel the heater hoses, they should both be very hot, it one is much cooler; you can try to back flush the core.

SOURCE: ford ka heater blows hot air all the time

Your problem is a faulty heater control valve. The design used on these vehicles allows for hot water to flow constantly and compete with the evaporator as there is no blender door. You have to replace the valve and possibly the control head. Meanwhile, you can bypass the valve to have cold air

SOURCE: 2002 New VW Beetle is only blowing hot air out of

Ok, here is the scoop on this. if you sit in the passenger seat and reach under the dash in the center of the vehicle. So your laying in the passenger side of the vehicle and placing your right hand on the floor board were passengers feet would go, slightly to the left of there is where the carpet raises up to the center hump behind the button for emergency flashers. Ok there you will see or feel a plastic small arm attached to a wire rod. this plastic arm is most likely broke or like mine the its worn, so push it back inside the small hole, while turning the heat switch from cold to hot. All this little arm does is open and close the heat vent, but also allows the air conditioner to fully turn on. As you turn the heat switch you will see, or notice it catches the mechanism and the heat will switch on or the air will come on as you turn the switch. I had only a few minutes left to short fix this so I opted to glue the darn thing in place, yes a quick fix but its working and after only looking and poking around I now know what this is so when I have time i can fix it. My own mechanic whom I trusted for years said look its the heater box major repair. I know he doesn't care to work on Vw's its all good but it cost almost nothing to repair this badly designed item. I was ready to sell as is and take the hit but waited one more day when I could find my good flashlight and just refused to believe I had to take off the dash. So dont go to dealer unless you have the time and you point out whats wrong, they also said it was both the air compressor and a cracked heat box? find and locate it yourself I don't have a warranty on this 2002 1602,000 mile car, but I keep it running with good maintenance and all you who are kind enough to keep us all updated on your finds.