Question about 2003 Renault 181

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Rover 75 diesel EP warning on dash car will not start

Engine stopped was told it was water damage due to a blocked drain now have EP warning on the dash is this relevant

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  • Big Blue Tug Jan 28, 2009

    Car was running well, came out of work and she will not start, engine turns over without any problem, but have letters 'EP' whre it should indicate auto mode i.e P,N.D.
    Also noticed that the engine management symbol does not appear


3 Suggested Answers

  • 350 Answers

SOURCE: Engine Warning light on rover 75

hi after reading your problem i gather the water pump blew you lost water the car overheated you say it had a brand new cylinder head and the cars still losing water and causing it to overheat and the garage say its the same problem as before yet they won,t do the job because it needs a bottom end ;engine block] so why when they had the head off was this not checked for level and signs of cracking . to be fair to the garage it something that is often overlooked . but that said if this is the problem that occured after three days of buying you are entitled to have the work gaurenteed for 12 months unless otherwise stated i can see there warrenty company won,t want to pay for it as they already paid the garage to do the job [CORRECTLY] the garage had no right to sell a faulty car in the first place and secondly they have been paid by your warrenty company to repair it it is not the warrentys companys fault the garage didnt do what was required in the first place but its not yours either so i would read what your warrenty agreement is and see if it states they won,t pay twice for the same job if not phone them up tell them the only reason you bought the car is because of the warrenty and it is not your fault the job was done properly in the first place and expect the car to be repaired as it should have been in the first place and its up to them and the garage to decide which one of them pays tell them what the garage mechanic said about its allright to drive and i have no idea what book tells you to ignore warning lights but should be shot then go to the garage tell them you want it putting right and you don,t care wheather its under warrenty or the garages oblgation not sell defective vechicles it is up to the garage to put it right or give you your money back if the problem arises within a reasonable amount of time usually seven days tell them to put it in writing if they refuse to do the job if they refuse get a wittness to this and tell them it needs puting right and will be taking to another garage getting it repaired and am giving you the first chance to repair it as stated in law then the bill will forwarded to them an have you took finance out on it or did you pay cash if finance phone them up tell them the problems your having and are going to stop payments until the car is fixed REMEMBER THE GARAGE DEPENDS ON THE FINANCE AND WARRENTY COMPANYS THEY WILL NOT WANT TROUBLE FROM THEM BECAUSE THEY WITH DRAW THERE BACKING THE GARAGE WON,T SELL THER CARS HENCE OUT OF WORK i bet your a newcastle supporter as well with this kind of luck if you let them get away with it your as daft as a brush find out where to report the garage i think it is the office of fair trading and if they won,t bend i will be amazed yates210456

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

Lloyd Six
  • 560 Answers

SOURCE: rover 75 diesel starts ok runs 10 seconds then

I know you say that you have checked pressures but incase you didn't know, there are 3 pumps on the car.

In tank = 1 bar upto an inline pump by the battery which increases to 3 bar then to the one on the engine that tops 2000 bar

The one by the battery + the intank one are VERY common to fail.

Other thing to check is that the pressure sensor on the rail is reading correctly.

Does it have any stored data? If no codes the it would be best to get it on some decent equipment that reads live data like Bosch KTS etc

Are you in the UK?

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

short shadey
  • 421 Answers

SOURCE: rover 75 diesel broken bonnet cable i cant open

You have to cut back the outer covering of the cable and pull the inner cable with a pair of neddle nose pliers

Posted on Jul 31, 2011

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Jun 20, 2011 | Mitsubishi Eclipse Cars & Trucks

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Try Chilton's or All Data for instructions. This is a 4.5 -5 hour ordeal for a professional and a 2 day mess for an amateur. Plus you must remove the timing belt on the 2.4L 4 Cylinder to get to the pump. Mess up here and you can damage your engine. WATER PUMP is sign with the ITEM 5 in the next diagram...


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
This procedure requires removing the engine timing belt and the auto tensioner. The factory specifies that the timing marks should always be aligned before removing the timing belt. Set the engine at TDC on No. 1 compression stroke. This should align all timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and both camshaft sprockets.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle to a level that allows access from above and below.
  2. Remove the right inner splash shield.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belts.
  4. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain the cooling system.
  5. Support the engine using a floor jack and block of wood, then remove the right motor mount.
  6. Remove the timing belt, tensioner and camshaft sprockets.

WARNING With the timing belt removed, DO NOT rotate the camshaft or crankshaft, or damage to the engine could occur.

  1. Remove the rear timing belt cover to access the water pump.
  2. Remove the water pump attaching bolts.
  3. Remove the water pump.

Fig. 1: Water pump location on the cylinder block-4-cylinder engines

Fig. 2: Water pump assembly-4-cylinder engines

To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces. Replace the water pump if there are any cracks, signs of coolant leakage from the shaft seal, loose or rough turning bearings, a damaged impeller or sprocket, or a loose or damaged sprocket flange.
  2. Install a new rubber O-ring into the water pump.
Make sure the O-ring is properly seated in the water pump groove before tightening the screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause damage to the O-ring and cause a coolant leak.

  1. Install the water pump and tighten the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  2. Using a cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the cooling system to 15 psi and check for leaks. If okay, release the pressure and continue the engine assembly process.
  3. Rotate the water pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
  4. Install the rear timing belt cover.
  5. Install the camshaft sprocket(s), timing belt and tensioner. DO NOT allow the camshafts to turn while the sprocket bolts are being tightened, in order to maintain timing mark alignment.

WARNING Do not attempt to compress the tensioner plunger with the tensioner assembly installed in the engine. This will cause damage to the tensioner and other related components. The tensioner MUST be compressed in a vise.

  1. Install the timing belt covers.
  2. Install the right engine mount bracket and engine mount.
  3. Remove the floor jack and wood block from underneath the engine.
  4. Install the crankshaft damper.
  5. Install the right inner splash shield.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Install and tension the accessory drive belts.
  8. Refill the cooling system using the correct quantity and type of coolant. Bleed the cooling system.
  9. Start the engine and check for proper operation.
  10. Check and top off the cooling system, if necessary.
2.5L Engine
See Figures 3 through 7

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Place a large drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain the engine coolant.
This procedure requires removing the engine timing belt and the auto tensioner. To help assure proper alignment at assembly, it may be helpful to set the engine at TDC on No. 1 compression stroke. This should align all timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and both camshaft sprockets.

  1. Remove the accessory drive belts and crankshaft damper.
  2. Remove the right engine mount. This requires safely supporting the engine with a floor jack and wood block so the mount can be removed.
  3. Remove the timing belt covers.
  4. Remove the timing belt and tensioner.

Fig. 3: Remove the water pump mounting bolts

Fig. 4: Pull the water pump assembly off of the engine and inlet pipe

Fig. 5: Open the water pump housing and examine for cracks or damage

Fig. 6: Replace the water pump housing gasket using a scraper tool

Fig. 7: Always keep the water pump's mounting bolts lined up with their correct mounting holes

  1. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  2. Separate the water pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the pump.
To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces. Inspect the pump for damage or cracks, signs of coolant leakage at the vent, and excessive looseness or rough turning bearings. Any problems require a new pump.
  2. Install a new O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Wet the O-ring with water to make installation easier. DO NOT use oil or grease on the O-ring.
  3. Install a new gasket on the water pump and fit the pump inlet opening over the water pipe. Press the assembly together to force the pipe into the water pump.
  4. Install the water pump-to-engine bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  5. Install the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Set the timing belt tension.
  6. Install the timing belt covers. Install the right engine mount. Remove the floor jack and engine block from underneath the engine.
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  8. Install the accessory drive belts and set to the proper tension.
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  11. Start the engine and verify proper operation, with no leaks.

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Feb 01, 2011 | 1999 Dodge Stratus

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Question is pertaining to a 1991 audi 90 allowed my oil level to drop way to low at which point the 'alarm' for low oil pressure began to sound. unfortunately, even after toping up the oil and cycling it...

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