Question about 1991 Ford F150

2 Answers

Can't get my clutch master cylinder out.

After spending 14 years upside-down on my head to loosen the two nuts to get it to move, the plastic barrel-thingy (neutral safety switch doohickey?) on the pushrod keeps it from going through the firewall, and I can't figger out how to get the ****** to come apart. Please help! I used to work on planes in the Air Force and a plastic part is making me want to scream!

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  • kazoomaestro Jan 15, 2009

    Guess I wasn't explicit enough before. Sorry. I did get the connector off, but the safety itself is what's keeping it from coming out. Thanks a jazillion for your answers, guys.

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Never worked on one of these ,not many gas guzlers to the pound here in spain.suggestion with a nice pair of snap on circlip pliars with 90% bend on tips cant you pull it back enough to remove the circlip on the end ...well maybe not probaly cant get them in ???What about the push rod shaft ,will the yoke come off the end ??unscrew it or hook and turn .when iam stuck like this i just think of how did i do it on the assembly line 40yrs ago,go down local bar have a coffee chat up the woman behind the counter then come back wave hammer no 3 at it and try again

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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There is a clip on the round end of the push rod. It is clipped on the brake pedal. it goes with the master cylinder out of the firewall. And the harness and connector for the neutral safety slides on lil teath, but it pops off pretty easy. It is a cheesy design but its 50 bucks for another one and you cant purchase the push rod by itself. Gentle is the word.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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1 Answer

How to bleed clutch


Check the fluid-reservoir for your clutch. If there is low/no fluid, top it up. Pump the pedal a few times first .. and check underneath the car for a fluid leak.

If the fluid reservoir is full, don't bother checking under the car for leaks.

Usually, the clutch master cylinder has a 'nipple' - a bleed point. Get someone to pump the clutch pedal for you a few times and keep it pressed down. Place a rag on the nipple and slightly undo the nut. Any air in the system should be forced out. You may have to open/close the nipple (nut) 2 or 3 times whilst somebody pumps and holds down the clutch pedal.

If there is no nipple/nut on the clutch master cylinder, follow the metal tube back up into the engine compartment and bleed the air out of it by putting a cloth around the topmost point where it connects to something else, and slightly undo the connection. The clutch pedal should be pressed down whilst you do this ..

If there's no air forced out of the hydraulic line or the clutch still does not build pressure, it may well be that the rubber ring inside clutch master cylinder is perished. You either have to fit a new rubber ring or replace the clutch master cylinder.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder is the best option. The bore of the master cylinder can wear - become 'ovalled' over time. Fitting a new rubber ring into a master cylinder that has a worn bore is only a short-term cure.

A perished rubber ring or worn clutch cylinder bore simply allows hydraulic fluid to be 'moved' without becoming pressurised

Dec 01, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I dont know were the clutch cable ajustment is.


There is no clutch cable. The single, dry disc type clutch uses a hydraulically operated master cylinder and a release cylinder mounted on the clutch housing. The clutch release cylinder is not adjustable. Clearance is automatically compensated for by internal design of the cylinder.

If your clutch is not releasing properly, the most likely cause is a worn out clutch disc, which will require more travel to disengage than the hydraulic system is designed to provide. It is either this, or your master and/or slave cylinders need replacement.

May 24, 2011 | 1992 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

2000 ford explorer shift stick is not wanting to shift into or out of first gear. Clutch is all the way depressed, no grinding noises, sometimes so hard to move I have to turn off the engine to shift into...


You didn't state the miles but I think either your clutch is gone or out of adjustment, if it is a manual non - hydraulic system.If you have a hydraulic clutch system, you may have a bad master or slave cylinder. Adjusting a manual clutch usually is not too bad but changing a clutch is a major job. Taking it to a mechanic should be your next step if you have less than medium mechanical skill. You can call your local auto parts store to see if you have a hydraulic system or not - if not, follow the clutch cable through the firewall and into the engine compartment, to the transmission. The cable will go through a metal bracket with 1 or 2 nuts on the cable housing - usually 2, with 1 nut on each side of the fork the housing passes through. Loosen the side away from the tranny enough to turn the other nut at least 10 turns, moving the housing end away from the tranny as you adjust. Re - tighten nuts and try the clutch. Repeat procedure until your clutch engages when you have released about 1/4 the distance traveled by the pedal. If you cannot restore clutch operation, then your clutch needs replacing and your flywheel needs to be resurfaced - a difficult job, to say the least.
Good luck!!

Nov 18, 2010 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

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What is the torque settings on the head bolts for 2002 nissan x-terra 2.4litre?


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Good luck,

Rebel Faggioli

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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