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check your hoses, water pump heater core radiator cap, if car has been overheated, check exhaust for steam and smell of coolant, check oil make sure it is not milky, last 2 are symptoms of blown head gasket
first of all the water pump doesn't have a heater, all the water pump does is cycle water (coolant) throughout the cooling system, the heater is up inside the dash behind the glove box.
I would feel the two 3/4" heater hoses that run from the engine into the heater core, if both of them are hot (providing the engine is at full temp) it one is hot and the other is cold maybe the heater core is plugged.
Gasket probably will not seal now, and if your going to have to remove water pump to replace it, you might as well put a new pump on as well. The reason for heater cutting in and out, is probably just due to low coolant, and air got into system. When cool, remove rad cap,start engine, and turn heater on while letting it get up to operating temperature, and top up rad as needed, until you see increased flow in rad indicating thermostat has opened and coolant is circulating. Watch for that a couple of times, then put rad cap back on, and top up return bottle to proper level as well. That should get your heat back.
could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]
This is how I like to do it. Make sure the car is parked with the front end at an upward angle. Drain the coolant from the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. Remove the upper and lower hoses at the radiator. Remove the thermostat housing, and the heater core hoses at the fire wall. Flush out the radiator by pouring fresh water into the overflow, and the hole where the thermostat was. Flush the heater core as best you can by pouring fresh water into the heater core hose connections. Let all the water drain out, then button everything back up and replace the thermostat with a new one. Refill the rad and engine by filling the coolant reservoir with a mix of 50% water and 50% antifreeze, or buy the premixed stuff from the auto parts store. (Buy 4 jugs of premix or 2 of straight antifreeze) Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature and the upper rad hose gets hot. Rev the engine a little to help get the air out of the cooling system. When the thermostat opens, the coolant level will drop in the reservoir, so top it up and replace the cap. Check for leaks, and check the coolant level for the next few days, and check for leaks. Dispose of the old coolant responsibly
Your auto is definitely loosing coolant and will overheat. Check your thermostat, hoses, belts, radiator cap and water pump. If you do not fix the leak or coolant circulation problem you can destroy your engine. The smell inside can be being picked up from the outside vent or it could be your heater core inside the ventillation area leaking (which could be your coolant leak).. If that is the case you will need to replace the heater core.
Sounds like the thermostat is working properly, the only other cause for the valve/lifter noise could be the oil pump is not pumping enough oil up to the top of the motor. I suggest doing an oil change(if you haven'y aleready), be sure to flush several quarts through, after sitting for 5 years I'm sure the old oil is pretty sludgy, this well help rule out this possibilty. As far as the water pump goes, It either works or doesn't typically when they are on there way out the will leak from the gaskets. A bad head gasket would cause white smoke form the exhaust as coolant get's into the oil and is burned off, so I don;t hink this is the problem.
Here's a start for you, hope this helps and good luck