a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you removed the tensioner and didn't lock the cams and crank down then you have to re-time the engine. It sounds like you let the exhaust and intake cams move.
Remove the spark plugs, put a ratchet on the crank pulley, slowly rotate engine until the cams line up. Once the cams are lined up remove, the timing belt and bring the crank around to the timing mark. put belt back on and let the tensioner go. put plugs back in...see if it'll start.
U need to re-timed the engine. Check all four marks going across the two cam pully is lined up with the engine head surface.
Then check the crank pully alignment mark the single notche align to the mark on the timing cover
If Honda is an interference engine (which I am not sure off) you would have already done damage by cranking it over. So that being said, it really won't make a difference which one you set first. I would not take the belt off until the crankshaft is set to the timing mark. Hopefully the cam will be close at that time and when you take the belt off you will only have to turn it a little. If the marks are way off I would move the cam very easy as to not cause any damage to valves. Good luck. Please rate my answer so I get points for it.
If you did not set the gears(pulleys) in the same place or set the marks in the timing belt to the marks in the gears the car wont start. when you do the the job is when you set the timing, not after you done. If you use a cheap timing belt those belts do not have marks, I recommend to get a belt from toyota that has a mark for each cam pulley and another mark for the crank pulley. Toyota doesn't have interference engines, so no matter how bad is your timing the car wont start just spin.
Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts
NOTE: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.
Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine.
Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
Except Prelude VTEC models:
Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
NOTE: Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.
On Prelude VTEC models:
Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt.
NOTE: Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1⁄4 fl. oz. (8 ml).
Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.
Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Remove the stopper.
Fig. 11: On VTEC engines, the tensioner must be compressed before installing it on the engine
Fig. 12: Remove the stopper after installing the tensioner on the engine
Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation
Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.
NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990–91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992–95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992–95 Preludes.
Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:
1990 Accord: 166 ft. lbs. (230 Nm)
1991–93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
1992–93 Prelude: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
1994–95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
Install the upper belt cover.
Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
Install the valve cover.
Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
Refill the engine coolant.
Install the splash shield under the engine.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.
BEFORE U TAKE THE TIMING BELT OFF PUT THE CRANK SHAFT ON ITS MARK.IF THE CAM MARKS ARE NOT LINED UP THEN ROTATE THE CRANK 180.THEN U CAN MARK THE POSITION OF THE CAM & CRANK GEARS W/A CRAYON,WHITE OUT ECT.AS LONG AS THE GEARS DO NOT MOVE THEN U WILL BE OK.WITH THE OLD BELT ON U CAN SEE THE TIMING MARKS.
You need to rotate the cam until timing marks on the sprocket are in line with the head, then make sure crank shaft timing mark is lined up. Install the belt. Might have to loosen the timing belt tensioner. Put timing belt tensioner back on, rotate the crank shaft with a wrench first to make sure there's no interference. Next, check compression.
It's time-consuming, as requires removing aux drivebelt (with alternator etc on it), and the cam belt. Well worth replacing the cam belt, aux belt and crankshaft oil seal while there. It's quite hard, but no special tools needed - except the Honda manual/instructions for setting up correctly (unless you mark the belt and replace exactly on pulleys).