My car got stolen but was recovered. I had several things fixed by James Wood Motors such as; broken window, stolen battery, so on. But one problem they could not fix is the air controls. They do not work. What I have found is that the a/c fuse on the inside fuse panel keeps blowing every time i turn on the ignition. They did not find that. Why its doing this I dont know but would like to. Also the interior overhead lights dont work and there is no power to the stereo. (I am a professional audio installer so i know i have fixed everything on that end.) I have taken a volt meter to the power wire and there is nothing. I have checked all of the other fuses several times along the repair process and none of the others have blown. The two harness plugs for the air control are intact and none of the wires are cut or damaged. So the question is why does the fuse for the ac keep blowing and, if its the fuse, why do my air controls, interior overhead lights, and power to the stero not work. Thanks, I appreciate any time you spend on this and value your opinion.
Either your not getting power to the window motor, or the motor is shot, Check with a good body shop, dealer, or your favorite mechanic. If you don't want to spend several hundred dollars and the window is up, leave it alone or repair as needed.
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Well, I can't tell by your explanation if the knob stem is broken & just spinning around or if it feels normal and nothing happens.
So, I guess I would first have you check all the fuses labeled "AC" or "Heater". Might be just a blown fuse, but remember, fuses always blow for a reason. There are many things that can be causing your problem like the heater/ac fan speed relay or a broken wire, etc.
I don't how auto repair savvy you are but, Google "Mazda 3 a/c panel". You will see many things on that first page like inexpensive replacement knobs, etc. There are even several YouTube videos on how to gain access to your ac/heater control panel. There is a wealth of information there. If you are not a do-it-yourselfer, you can at least look through there to educate yourself before you take your car to someone. Being informed ahead of time is very valuable.
Make sure your blower fan is turned on and is blowing air. When you push your a/c button the yellow light should come on. If it is not blowing cool, it could be several things. Low on 134a or the control that has the a/c button on it could be bad or blown fuse, bad compressor, etc. If the air is cool but not cold the 134A is low. If it is still blowing hot, check and make sure that the clutch on the compressor is locked in. It most likely is not. Check ac fuses and ac relay, if they are good, check the 134a ,if low, refill it. This should fix it. Remember that if the a/c clutch is not locking in, you cannot add 134a because of no circulation.On some vehicles, if it is completely out of 134a, the relay will not trip and you will have to bypass the relay to provide power to the compressor to fill it. If you do all of these and it still does not work, you will need to take it to a professional. If you need to, reply back and I will give you more possibilities.(I think that you mean evaporator coil)
I just replaced a set of cooling fan motors for this problem, and the connectors on the motors were even melted, had to replace connector pigtails as well, th fans also cools the a/c condenser so if the fans quit then your a/c will not be very cool unless your driving and the air flow will aid like a fan would..
We had this same issue for months and took it to several non-dealership places hoping for a cheaper fix, no one could find an answer. For us, it would blow, then not blow. You could clearly hear it trying to blow and sometimes it would even spit white particles out of the vent. We finally took it to the dealership and they updated some software on it and it completely fixed the problem. I beleive the software upgrade was under $150.00. Good luck!
It may not be a relay problem but a vacuum line that has failed or was pulled off by one of the monkeys who broke two wires too.
The vanes that control where the moving air goes (heated or cooled) are nearly always controlled by vacuum 'motors' and there is a vacuum reserve canister (it supplies vacuum under hard acceleration) that I have seen in GM cars with a very small, weak nipple that is easily broken off the canister.
Check all the vacuum lines you can identify: these are mostly small diameter black hoses about 5/16" to 1/2" and are routed to several destinations and start at the intake manifold.
They are prone to cracking and only pushed onto nipples so can be easily pulled off by clumsy 'mechanics.'
It will be a cable that will be disconnected. or broken. Youll have to take some of the dash apart to see the cable and follow it to the switch. Dont be affraid to take some things apart and when you cant see, use a mirror to help you see behind the dash. work the control and watch the action. You will fix this dont get frustrated. good luck
You'll need to check some things to see where the problem is. See if the hoses to and from the heater core are hot, and your cooling system is full. If the heater core definately has hot coolant going thru it, then the problem is probably in the heater control system inside the car. I believe this car has an electric motor that controls a temp/blend door in the heater box. You'll need to see if it is moving the door. I have seen the doors break and the motor just spin. If the ac controller detects the motor is travelling too far, it will shut the motor off. Bat disconnect will fix this but you'd still have to replace the broken door. Depending on wether you have dual zone temp control, it may have 2 motors and 2 doors. One is directly behind the glove box easy to get at.The other, you don't won't to know, it's behind the heater box. Single zone motor should be behind the glove box. Lower glove box down, you can remove motor easily and feel the door's shaft. If it spins free the door is broken. Broken blend doors are common. Other possiblities are electical problems with the ac control or motors.
The baffles that direct air, heated or cooled, are controlled by vacuum 'motors.'
You may have a vacuum line off somewhere or the vacuum reservoir is cracked or one of its connectors (thin plastic protrusions) is broken.