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Re: fan keep runnig all the time
You have a faulty temp sensor in your radiator, if you can see the rad look around the outside of the rad and look for a round sensor with two wires coming from it, it looks like a brass hexegon nut, Got to land rover and ask for a radiator temp switch for the fan. they are easy to change if you have a wrench to fit it, you will lose a little fluid so be sure to top up your coolant after fitting. Hope this helps firstname.lastname@example.org
Usually electric fans turn off after few minutes to bring the coolant temp below the sensor settings. If both fans run all the time could be caused by either the A/C switch is in the on position or the A/C high pressure switch is bad.
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drain the water from your fuel pump only a small amount open the drain plug on the bottom to do this.then close it.now pump up the fuel as hard as the pump will go.then get someone to turn over the engine .as you keep pumping .should now start.
This may be a clutch problem or a cluthch slave, what is happening is the transmission is not completely stopped spinning, so as you try to go into gear the clutch is not disengaged completely. this can be due to a bad slave or master.
The fluid for the clutch master, make sure its full. if low then you may have a leak. if low fill and pump pedal a few times to see if that helps.
If clutch master is low or full go to trany and locate the cltuch release fork on the transmission at the end you will see clutch slave, make sure there are no leaks. have someone push clutch pedal as you watch the fork move. make sure it move the distance. if its leaking then its bad.
The last thing would be the clutch pressure plate or disc, this is hard to see without removing transmission, If something broke away from cluch plate and is jammed against plate this will keep traany spinnig, but it would also be hard to get into first.
If you can start car in neutral and put into 1st gear without a problem then thats confusing, but if it is hard to go into first also then its in the clutch system. i am guessing you are in first with clutch down when starting and then its hard to get into other gears. good day.
Try cycling your ignition switch from off to on (don't turn until it cranks, just turn to the on position where dash gauges, etc. light up. When you turn it to the on position, listen for the sound of your fuel pump runnig for a just a few seconds. This is how the fuel systems is kept pressurized for quicker starts without undue cranking.
Try this tactic for 7 or 8 times , one right after another....then try to start the car.
If the car starts OK after this exercise, I'd consider replacing the fuel filter.
If nothing changes, when you do get it started, check the running fuel pump pressure, also check the operation of the fuel pressure regulator.
If running the heater keeps the engine from overheating, this is usually a sign of a fan failure. I don't want to dismiss the coolant on the ground, but if your engine is getting hot enough, it's going to boil the coolant and it will come out the overflow tube on the expansion tank.
Testing the fans is different depending on the engine you have. Electric fans are attached to the radiator and are seperate from the engine. A clutch fan is a fan that is driven off a shaft directly on your engine. If you have electric fans, turn on your AC with the engine running. The fans should spin up. If you have a clutch fan, it should spin all the time.
The easiest thing to do however, is replace your thermostat. If that sticks closed, it won't allow coolant to flow. Again, this is different depending on your engine, but if you look at your radiator, and follow the top hose back to the engine, this is were your thermostat should be.
And lastly, you can check your water pump, but this is a it subjective. You'll have to remove the serpentine belt to do this. Grab the pulley on the pump and wiggle, you shouldn't have any play. Try to turn it. It should not turn *too* easily.
Running the A/c in city traffic can cause this. You may nave a fan out. Start the car with out the A/c on, open the hood check the rad. fan, then turn on the A/c and recheck the fan - it should be on now. If not, we have a problem with the fan circuit. Check that and repost.
Check the connections to the starter, 90 percent of the time when testing batteries and starters here in WI the issue it the wires at the starter. Don't just look at them, either. Pull the big one off and clean it really well, and the small one if it looks bad. Also check the ground wire where it bolts to the motor from the battery, if the latter does not fix it. You have a bad connection, the old battery was probably still good-but don't take that as saying to take the new one back, you are better safe than sorry, I would keep the new one anyway-and the old for a spare.
cooling fans. either electric or thermo clutch(heat tightens up a coil spring to make it spin faster as needed) If it has electric fans then they may be going bad and not spinnig fast enough. if its the mechanical type with the thermo clutch, its not engaging strongly enough. much like and old stick shift car with a bad clutch.
Normally, the fan will not spin at the same RPM as the engine. This is
the purpose of the fan clutch. On the fan clutch sits a little thermal
spring that engages the clutch to spin the fan at the same rpm as the
motor when the motor gets hotter than normal.
Being able to hold onto the fan while the motor is running, is normal (not recommended, but normal).
You can test the clutch by heating it and then trying to spin the fan
while the motor is off. If it is still easy to spin, you could have a
bad fan clutch, or you didn't heat it enough. It is kind of a crappy
way to test.
You not having cooling issues leads me to guess that your clutch is
alright. But I don't know what type of climate you live it, nor do I
know in what condition your clutch is.
They can actually be difficult to replace. Easy theory, but actually
doing the job may be harder than you think. They are threaded onto the
water pump pulley (just one big threaded stud). To remove you need to
either be really crafty, or you need a wrench designed to hold the
pulley in place while you loosen the clutch and fan assembly. No, the
pulley drive belt is not enough to keep the pulley from turning (it
will either slip or you will turn the crank of the motor).
Usually they are on there pretty tight! When I replaced my water pump
on my truck, I could not remove the fand and clutch from the water pump
while in the truck (I had to remove my radiator shroud and remove it
all in one piece) then I had to weld the old water pump impeller to the
casting to keep it from spinning then broke it loose with a 2ft breaker
Once you get the old one off, remove the fan and bolt it to your new clutch unit. Then thread it on the water pump.