Question about 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Gauges do not move and truck does not turn on

I have already changed the C.P.S. and the battery, but the truck still will not start. I think it might be electrical because when i turn the key but all the way the gauges usaully move to indicate pressure and voltage, well now they are not moving. They are just laying there they do not even flinch when the truck turns over. Thank you in advanced.

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  • koachdaddy May 04, 2009

    almost the same problem on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee; open door, no dome light. turn on key, nothing on dash/radio/windows whatsoever. turn key, nothing. leading you to think it's a main fuse or relay.

    connect jumper cables, dome light works. turn key, dash operates and car starts as it should. but here's where it gets tricky; drive or fast idle vehicle for a few minutes at 2-2.5k rpm and the volt gauge will max-out at 19v along with the check gauges light illuminating. check voltage at battery and it's showing 13.8v.

    reduce rpm's to idle (600-700rpm'ish) for a couple minutes and the volt gauge goes back to 14v and the check gauges light extinguishes. turn car off and the same thing happens; no dome light etc until you install jumper cables..

    installed a battery/computer/ASD relay from a friends 99 cherokee with same results; no dome light etc...

    followed chilton's charging system troubleshooting; car off, disconnect neg lead from battery, connect test light between the cable/post, light on (short somewhere in car). disconnect alternator harness and still get light. it then tells you to remove fuses til the light goes out, removed all fuses under the hood and in the passenger kickwell, light never went out.

    i ordered an alternator as soon as i installed a friends known good computer (regulator built into the computer) and it didn't fix the problem, still waiting for it to arrive. tonight i intend to try the same light test, but disconnect the three PCM connectors, one at a time.

    additional factors: the horn that used to sound when you hit the lock on the keyless entry fob hasn't sounded in two years. just before the trouble started last weekend while my wife was getting into the car, she opened the door and just as she was stepping in all the locks cycled. i asked her what she touched and she said, 'nothing'. then, we stopped to look at another tourist attraction and this is when the trouble started. i've tried to reset the antitheft by cycling the locks on both front doors and rear hatch.

    btw- i'm stationed in italy and can't just take it to the local dealer for repair. i'm used to performing my own maintenance, but this has myself and fellow aircraft techs baffled. not to mention it's about a 2 week wait for parts to arrive and the vehicle is supposed to get on a boat to return stateside in less than a month...

    any assistance you can provide is greatly appreciated.





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This is a very complex problem. sounds to me like the BUS communication between the modules isnt online. hundreds of things can cause this. such as a unprogrammed PCM, shorted sensors, blown fuses for gateway modules, fault SKIM module, of faulty wiring. it is going to be nearly impossible for the vehicle to be repaired without bringing it to a dealership. the dealer has the capability to program modules and has special tools to monitor signals for module to module communication. i know this beacause i work at a jeep/chrysler/dodge dealership. and im not familiar with the term CPS. but i am assuming that its the powertrain control module. and if that is so it needs to be programmed to the vehicle and the Vin # needs to be transfered over from the SKIM module electronically, VIA the DRB3 scan tool that only dealers have access too. hope this helps

Posted on Jan 15, 2009


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