Question about 1994 Chevrolet C1500

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Items in heater that are binding

I think pennies dropped into the vent and are restricting the fa motor

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Remove fam motor & have a look for them?

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

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Fa goes off when ac on thn comes back onwhat may be wrong 1999 jeep grand Cherokee


Check for melted wires or connector at the blower resistor. It's located near the blower motor which is under the dash above where the passenger's feet go.

Mar 04, 2015 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

2002 Chevy S10 blows warm air on all settings unless it is set for the vents I replaced the thermostat as had code for bad thermostat


You may have a problem with the blend door motors on the side of the heater box. As one other person said: "Look at the controls right above the driver's feet area toward the heater box". If they are moving properly all the way, when you move the selectors on the dash, then there may be a problem inside the heater box. If they don't move all the way, then the blend door motors may be bad or binding. Another common problem on these is the control head on the dash not working properly. The control head can be diagnosed with a scanner that can read codes for it. Hope this helps out.

Oct 28, 2012 | 2002 Chevrolet S-10

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Rear vents blow out hot air when a/c is on


Keep this principle in mind: Heat, flows INTO cold... When you hold an ice cube in your hand, your hand gets cold because the heat from your hand is flowing INTO the clod ice cube, NOT because the cold is flowing into your hand.

On this particular vehicle (like many modern vehicles), hot water from the engine flows through the heater core at all times, even when you have the A/C on or when you have nothing (A/C, heat or vent) on. The system uses a door that closes down over the air opening to the heater core to keep you from feeling warm/hot air when it is not desired. The reason(s) you feel that the vent air is warm even when the outside temperature is somewhat cool is/could be caused by the following:

First, although as mentioned above, the heater core is restricted from receiving air when you are not commanding heat by the control panel, the heater core ultimately ends up as warm as the engine temperature. This is generally somewhere around 200 degrees F. Because all the air coming out of your vent(s) must pass over the door that restricts air over the heater core, and because the heater core gets so hot, some of that heat is picked up by air passing over the hot door even though it is closed.

Second, the door that restricts airflow from passing over the heater core has a seal around it. After a period of time this rubber (or usually felt) seal deteriorates, allowing some air to actually pass over the heater core. Since the core is hot all the time, some of the air gets heat loaded, producing warmed air.

Third, the door is operated by (in the case of your vehicle) an electric motor which responds gradually/proportionately to the setting you select on the temperature dial. If the motor gets out of calibration (can happen from time to time), if the control head has a 'glitch' and sends an incorrect signal (chronically, usually), or if the electric motor (called an actuator and contains its own little electronic 'brain') becomes faulty, the door may not be closing completely. This symptom can also be caused by a problem with the door itself, where the door gets stuck due to warping of the plastic case, a foreign object preventing it from closing (usually a pen or toy dropped into a vent or defrost opening), or a broken or cracked door hinge.

Last, the vent intake opening, where the 'fresh' air comes into the car on the 'vent' setting, is located just below the windshield on the passenger side. This opening receives its air directly off of the sun-baked, engine-heated hood and because of this the air is never as cool as outside air even on a cooler night.

I hope this answers your question. Many domestic vehicle manufacturers have begun installing heater control valves on their vehicles once again as they nearly all used to have. Note that the fix for most everything I have mentioned here requires removal of the dash of the vehicle or replacement of the control head and therefore is in many cases not worth the investment if it is not an extreme problem (for example, unless the system is stuck on full heat in the middle of summer. Additionally, remember that, if you so desire, manual shutoff valves can be placed in the heater hose lines (please consult a qualified mechanic as water from a vehicle can and will scald and burn you!), allowing you to manually shut off the flow of water into the heater core, thus reducing some of the heat (Readers note that certain foreign vehicles REQUIRE water flow through the heater core at all times for engine cooling and are not candidates for this procedure!).


Parts Of BMW.

May 30, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where is the heater fan relay located on 1990 mercedes 190e


If the heater is not working (fan is not turning), but you are able to press the climate control buttons to activate the AC and venting, then the relay (actually this is the ACC in the dash with the buttons, there is no separate relay that controls the AC/Heater fan) is not the problem. Check the fuse box in the right side engine compartment, then check the long 3A flat fuse located in a coverd case atop the the wheel well in front of the fuse box. If these are okay, the fan motor is the problem. If the motor needs to be replaced, you'll need to remove the front cowl under the windshield, and also the windshield wiper assembly. The motors usually bind after 20+ years and need to be replaced. Sometimes, they will bind, then work again. Sometimes they'll bind and blow the long fuse. The job takes about 2 hours and the motor is about $150-$250.

Jan 10, 2010 | 1990 Mercedes-Benz 190

1 Answer

2000 suzuki grand vitara: broken heater fan belt? I noticed a light 'thwapping' noise coming from my center dashboard heater vents and then a burnt rubber smell. I am thinking there is a heater fan belt...


There is no fan belt Cassandra. It is possible that the blower motor is shot. Take it in to a well known shop and have them look at it. DO not run the AC unit it's been repaired if the fan motor is binding for some reason it will make the wiring going to the unit hot and could result in a compartment fire.

Nov 06, 2009 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

1995 GEO METRO BLOWER MOTER REPLACE


Yes, the speed control resistor is a possible culprit. There are other possibilities though. The motor itself might be wearing out. Bearings could be going bad and binding, or the motor itself could be. Usually when a speed control resistor goes, the particular speed setting that portion controls goes out completely, not just slows down. Most automotive blower motors have an independent resistor coil for each speed that you can select. If one of them goes, you lose that speed and keep the others. If you replace the resistor and continue to have a problem, you might want to remove the motor assembly completely and have it bench tested.

Dec 09, 2008 | 1995 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Defrost will not work


The switch that does this is the mode control, You will need to pull the heater control out and check that it is sending a vacuum signal to the defrost air diversion door vacuum motor, if it is then the hose is either restricted or the vacuum motor is bad or more likely something has fallen down into the dash and jammed the defrost door, this is the most common problem I saw as a Ford dealer tech for 20 years. The usual item found is a pen or pencil.

Nov 21, 2008 | 1996 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

My pontiac grand prix gt


it sounds like your heater duc door is not closing all the way something might have drop into your duct work threw your defroster vents or heater door vacuum operated valve that closes off heat to ac duct work may be binding

Sep 11, 2008 | 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix

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