My Dad passed away and left me his 87 S10 pickup. He's wired a toggle switch that has to be turned on in order to start the truck. Can't tell what it's wired to or how to undo -- anybody heard of this or know what I can do to remove the toggle?
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Re: Toggle switch attached to battery or starter
First of all i need to know if the vehicle will start without the toggle switch? if it does then you can just remove it if the vehicle will not start without turning the switch on you should know that the initial power is from this switch so mostly you have problem in the ignition switch and you have to repair or replace the ignition switch before yo disengage the toggle switch.
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Fitting a toggle switch for starting used to be a budget method of overcoming starter switch and other problems on older cars but will not work where the standard ignition key contains a transponder.
You haven't provided enough detail for a good answer but wiring a (spring return type) toggle switch to operate the starter motor is relatively easy and requires only a battery live and a wire to the starter solenoid or to the coil of the starter relay if you wish to use a relay.
Mostly these wires can be extended from the existing harness to the new switch.
Your problem seems to be a faulty solenoid. The solenoid is a little monster that lives on top of the starter motor, and its job is twofold. Firstly, it supplies full battery power to the starter motor, and secondly it drives a gear on the starter to engage with the engine flywheel.
Now, your problem. The first guess could be the ignition switch, but fitting a toggle seems like a fairy tale answer. Check the starter solenoid to see if there is a frayed wire on the thin wire that connects to the starter, or possibly a frayed wire on the battery cable that is shorting to the small connector. Otherwise, I have seen the terminal of this small wire actually become loose and turn in the direction of the battery cable, which is also connected to the solenoid. A short here will cause the problem you are describing.
Finally, the solenoid could have a short circuit inside the body, which means replace the solenoid.
The harness is a dealer part or a scrapyard part. The harness itself for jsut the fuel pump as it is set up by GM- the relay coil has one side hot +12 volts all the time, even when off. The ground side of the coil goes to the 3 bladed oil pressure switch which completes the ground circuit when there is oil pressure This is the tan wire. There is a wire that comes from the ECU to prime the pump and keep it operating while initially starting. This is usually a white wire.
+12 volts usually is applied at all times at cavity 87 in the relay connector and the wire to the fuel pump is in 87A.
The harness from the dealership will list price at about 2000.00 US, and it will be the entire harness that includes that portion for the fuel pump.
If your pump is not energizing, or not staying energized, the oil pressure switch is likely at fault. By the same token it stays energized all the time unless relay is disconnected.
If you are going to add a switch, the easiest thing to do is gut out an old fuel pump relay and solder to the contact parts and clip the relay coil. This does bypass all auto shutoff. The wire will see some fair current so use 12 gauge or 10 gauge.and keep run as short as possible.
Hi, I would like to help you, but I cannot tell from what you have said what is connected where. Do you have a big battery cable going from the battery positive to the big terminal on the starter solenoid? Do you then also have a wire from the battery positive to the toggle switch and a another wire from the toggle switch to the small start terminal on the starter solenoid? I don't understand why you are connecting anything to the negative terminal, as that is not necessary.
To do this, you will have to trick the security and interlock systems in the steering column, but yes, it can be done. You would disconnect the battery, undo the wiring at the switch, and pull the switch wires down out of the column. This is a big job, and you may be better off replacing the switch. Let me know if you have more questions.
Here is a wiring diagram of how you should by-pass that cooling fan by using a toggle switch, and you can get a fuse holder and use a 30 amp fuse instead of a 30 amp circuit breaker, but you should use the circuit breaker since you are no longer using a relay, and if there is a voltage spike the circuit breaker will reset itself, and a fuse will blow out and you will have to change it. Most auto parts stores will carry the 30 amp toggle switch and circuit breaker, also be sure to use 10 ga. wire and do not forget the wire connectors that you will need to attach the wires to the toggle switch, the circuit breaker, and to the battery as well as the connection to the cooling fan wires.
This wiring diagram is very basic and you should be able to follow it with little difficulty, and you should also dis-connect the cooling fan at the wiring connector to the cooling fan and connect the by-pass wiring directly to the cooling fan motor so that you do not run voltage back through the stock system. Let me know if you require further assistance.
If your ignition switch is bad in your steering column, and the starter does not engage when the key is turned forward, then this is a quick fix for you.
BE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONECTED BEFORE YOU START WIRING. You can run some heave gauge (18 plus, and about 12 feet of it) wire to the top mount and the rear mount on the starter solenoid (one end of the wire to each, making a loop) Run the wire into the interior of the truck, and then install a toggle switch in the loop of wire. You will still have to turn on the key to engage the motor, but it will not start until you flip the toggle. That should get you by until you can replace the ignition switch in the column.