How to get the timing belt off a 97 Honda Passport?
I've got the whole front of my motor off to the timing belt. Me and a friend lined up the marks and went to push the tensioner down to loosen the timing belt but we couldn't. How do I get my old timing belt off to put my new one on.
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Re: How to get the timing belt off a 97 Honda Passport?
Ok this is pretty simple first of all this vehicle has a hydraulic tensioner so will nee to loose the two bolts that holds the hyraulictenisor and remove tensionercompletely and belt will become loose and can be removed. Its recommended that you change this tensioner when you do a timing belt job at about 60,00 miles. However if you choose to re-use tension it can be compressed(pushed back in with a bench vise and can be held in place for installion by a very skinny allen key of a wire type brake clip or something of that sort. Here is a diagram of your timing marks, conatct if you need more help GoodLuck and thanks for using
FIX YA http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/1997/honda/passport/1997_honda_passport_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm
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When changing the timing belt on a vehicle be sure that the timing marks line up on the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket then turn the engine by hand (not the starter) 2 full revolutions (I spin it 4 revolutions to be completely sure) and check that the timing marks still are lined up. While turning the engine if you feel resistance STOP. You may not have the timing correct. Make sure that the spark plugs are removed while doing this because the compression of the engine can make it difficult to turn by hand.
I would guess your timing belt has jumped a cog or two, and should be replaced. When you aim a timing light at your harmonic balancer, the marks should stay in one position. If the marks are jumping around, your belt has jumped.
I just read a rather lengthy dissertation from some other frustrated owner with the same kind of problem. He had 2 causes: The first was low fuel pressure that a new pump fixed. The other was the harmonic balancer (on front of engine, bottom pulley of timing belt). It has a metal inner and outer ring with rubber sandwiched in between. For some reason the rubber had gotten hot and allowed the outer ring (cam timing) to move compared to the inner ring (crank timing). Once the balancer cooled down, the rubber seemed solid again. The timing mark on the outer ring should line up with the key slot on the inner ring.
if you have the 4 cyl they are located on the belt cover and the mark is on the drive pully, if you have a 6 cyl. the marks are on the block behind the belt cover, but the timing is set at TDC and is not adjustable.
It's a very involved teardown of the front of the motor. It takes quite a bit of time and if you need to do this, you're best off doing the timing belt and tensioner, thermostat, coolant flush, and all accessory belts while you're at it, to avoid duplicating the labor charges down the line.
you need to re-do you timing belt and make sure the cam is aligned, there will be an arrow on the cam and another arrow for you to line up to, its called TDC (top dead center)..once thats lined up you can put the belt back and your timing should be better
The crankshaft should have the timing mark on the crank pulley (Notch in the outer edge of the pulley near the keyway) It should align with the timing mark on the oil pump. (With the keway turned to about the 3 O'clock position.)
Align the marks on the camshaft timing pulleys with the corresponding dots on the front plate.
If you are installing a new belt, it should have 2 solid white lines printed on it that you would align with the timing marks on the cams and a dotted white line to align with the timing mark on the crank.
It makes a difference which way you put the belt on. (Which edge faces the front of the engine.) Most, but not all brands of belts have arrows and the word "FRONT" on them to tell you which edge of the belt shoud face the front of the motor. If there is no mark to tell you which edge is front, the letters on the belt must be able to be read correctly as viewed from the front of the vehicle.