Right side axle seal, left side outer dv boot,trailing arm bushin
How much does this cost? and its a 97 civic ex. with87,000 miles should i fix it soon as possible or can i still drive it and for how long also at 90,000 miles what should i get done to it thank you for you time ] i appricate it
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i have the exact same problem ive got 2001 honda civic and have an annoying rattle from the wheel area. i have replaced cv joint, ball joint, sway bar drop links, strut, and suspension bushing and arm....but still rattle noise is there. dnt have a clue what it could be, from looking on the internet i have found few possibilities.....lower control arm/bushin...motor mounts....gear box mounts....strut rod bushing....axle....inner/outer cv joint....calliper pins......shock/shock bushing...or wheel bearing. im hoping tio get all this checked out its got to be able to be fixed somehow!
You're not going to hurt anything. To separate the ball joints you smack the raised spots (nipples) on the actual knuckle/spindle (the big part you're removing that has the bearing) itself near each joint. Just don't hammer up on the ball joint bolts or accidentally hit the rubber ball joint boots with your hammer. You hit it hard and with good aim. Check frequently to see if it has broke loose while you're striking it.
The part you're taking to get the bearing pressed into has to be separated from all of the following: the upper control arm, lower control arm, brake caliper (don't disconnect brake line from caliper, let it rest on something and not hang), ABS sensor wire (if equipped) the axle, outer tie rod end (steering).
If you can't pull out all those little cotter keys you can take a tiny drill bit and drill the holes back out to make room for the new ones.
If your not over miles then it should be covered under warranty, take it to the dealer for inspection. they have standard 3 year 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty... 3 years 50,000 miles on power train...
Usually once the boot is torn, dirt goes in, and all of the lubricant goes out. If you have been driving it this way, it will damage things faster. Normally you hear a "click" when turning out of a bad cv joint.It is a safer solution to just replace both, but of coarse, not cheaper.
hey The lock cylinder is held in by the chrome on the outside in the cylinder
where the key goes in to turn it. from the inside if the door - the outer piece
of the chrome (the ring) has a couple of 'fingers' that help hold it on - push
it off from the inside so you can reuse it. you should be able to push the
cylinder out from the door now.