I purchased a car from a person a few years back. The car had a stock alarm system with auto start and an after market starter interrupter put on it. The latter is located under the dash. The starter interrupter is giving me problems. On the device there are four wires: Red, Black, Green, and White (i believe). The only ones they bothered to connect were the black and red wires to my car. The black wire looks like it's coming from the steering wheel and the red wire leads down to the foot of the car. What are the two wires used for and how can I bypass the device or completely remove the device?
Note the diagram. I wasn't sure of engine litre size? Is this what you have? Hope you can read it?
Sometimes when relay doesn't show terminal numbers, it may mean the relay is soldered into fuse box. I don't know about yours? The load side of relay is that line with arrowhead, when relay is energized that line moves to other terminal and voltage goes to starter motor. and that fuse goes hot. On the control side of relay, left side in diagram,that top wire is voltage, should go hot with key in the crank position, the ground for that side is a chassis ground
Just to add, starter interrupt is usually for security system, my diagram didn't show that? Usually passlock doesn't interrupt the starter motor? I could be wrong.
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SOURCE: 1985 corvette vats system w/o chip in key need to bypass
REMOVE THE INFO PANEL IN THE CENTER. THE RELAY IS BEHIND THE INFO PANNEL. YOU CAN HEAR THE RELAYS CLICKING. YOU CAN CUT THE WIRE OF THE RELAY TO STOP THE RELAY FROM ACTIVATING THE IGNITION CUT OFF.
IF NO OIL PRESSURE THE ENGINE WILL STOP, CHECK THE OIL PRESSURE. GO TO CORVETTTE FORUM .. NEED SLEEP !
SOURCE: 1997 Chevy Cavalier possible ground wireing problem???
I wouuld agree that it is grounding out. Knowing the cavalier, it is gonna be in an impossible place to get to like under the dash.
SOURCE: How do I hook-up Sunpro Super tach 2.
I've got an install diagram for that around here somewhere but for now, the trigger wire to run the tach itself goes to the "tach" connection next to the "Bat" terminal on the distributor cap. one wire attaches to your dash lighting so it comes on with the dash lights and dims properly, the other wire is likely a ground. If I don't add to this later, try googling Sun electronics...I am fairly sure they have an install page.
SOURCE: 1988 chevy 3500 runs really bad!
I have the same truck I've been looking for information on a different subject. I am an ASE technician I may know what might be causing your problem. First off the white wire on the coil that goes to nothing is your test wire it's not going to be hooked up unless you are performing a test to ensure that the coil is working. Just changing parts often times does not solve the problem and it can become very expensive and make things worst for the next guy to fix. it's going to be in one of two systems Fuel or Ignition since you just did things to the ignition system I'd start looking there check the firing order needs to know what engine you have before I can give you the firing order. is this a V6? V8 5.7? what all did you replace during your tune up? it could be that one of the plugs are not gaped correctly or tightened down which could cause damage to the head requiring the valves to ground to correct the problem. Your catalytic converter may also be causing the problem one the et hot and melt they start blocking the flow of exhaust. If you would like to read more on that check out this site it has some very good information. http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm
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