I just replaced the pads on the front brakes. I bought pads that had a piece of metal riveted to the back of the pad to help stop squeal. When we drove it for about 40 minutes on the highway, then did some city driving, they started to squeal really badly. I then removed the pads and then used a spray on coating that is designed to stop brake squeal made by CRC. This did not work. Is there anything that I can use to stop the squeal? I wouldn't mind some every now and then, but this is loud enough to be very annoying. Please help!
I have a 2004 Dodge Durango 4X4. I did the rear brakes at 50,000 miles. I got the middle priced Duralast God pads and new Duralast rotors. The brakes squealed something awful. A week later we swapped out the pads for the Duralast C Max top of the line pads and the problem went away so far for good. I went with new Duralast rotors and gold pads again on the front. The squealing started on the first day and got worse each day after. I swapped them out for the Duralast C Max and everything was OK for a few days then the squealing started but mostly on the left front. Auto zone is giving me full credit on the front brakes but I am unsure as to which direction to go in with this. The front brakes which were replaced 12 K miles ago by a scumbag mechanic who charged my wife $212.00 and as it turned out only replaced the pads and did not even turn the rotors or replace them. 12,000 miles later the rotors were pulsating. When I did the inspection the middle of the rotors were rotting away and the rotors were scored quite a bit. Obviously these rotors original equipment at almost 60 K miles. When I figure out the front brake squealing problem I will share it here as I am sure that someone else is having these squealing problems with their Chrysler product.
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Re: 2005 Dodge Durango Front Brake Squeal
Did you buy factory pads or get cheap aftermarket pads? If aftermarket did you get the ceramic? The cheap aftermarket ones tend to squeal pretty bad. Like the last comment on here, you should have your rotors turned whenever you change the pads.
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metal on metal from brakes is usually caused by the brake pad squealer, its a piece of metal that hits the disk before the rivets hit the brake path. Check brake pads for wear. Bad hub bearing may casue misalignment of rotor to brakes causing same issue. Look at it quickly before any damage to rotor happens.
Did you install Dodge Replacement pads or aftermarket? With the size of the rotors and pads on your Ram it is not uncommon for aftermarket pads to have squeal. Did you install and use the anti-squeal material that should have come with the pads?
The first thing I would do is inspect the brakes. The brake pads have a metal indicator that will start to rub when the pads get low. It will make a really annoying high pitch squeal.
It could also be a condition known as metallic squeal. This would be a metallic particle in the brake pad that is causing the noise. Replacing the pads is a guaranteed fix for this.
It could also be a backing plate rubbing or any number of things.
Checking the brakes would be a good first step.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
There are 3 to 4 different compositions of brake pads--some are softer--others are ceramic or metallic---probably you have gotten metallic---which do have a history of squealing much of the time. therefore, check to see if that is what you purchased--if so--there is no mechanical problem. However--a tip--especially in colder, salt-using, (on streets)climates. Lubricate the brake rotor sliders with grease twice a year so they don't stick.
Did you apply anit-squeal to the back of the pads? If not take apart and do so. I assume your rotors were turned to get the glazing off, or replaced. They are not expensive. This should sove the basic brake squeal.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads and the 4 anti-squeal shims
CAUTION Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or replacement of the brake caliper.
Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
Install or connect the following:
Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
2 brake pads
Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet
head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil
must be replaced.
Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of
Wagner Brake Products.
Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is
necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the
wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for
distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe
must be discarded.
Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the
instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes
are bonding and riveting.
The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe,
clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive,
some linings are riveted to the shoe.
Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.
Drum Shoe and Brake Installation
Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge
of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs
that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent.
Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves
that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the
threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes,
lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable.
Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen
adjuster with penetrating oil.
The areas or pads where the brake show will
rub or contact the backing plate.
Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure
all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are
properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder
pushrods and parking brake links.
They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links
and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.
Most likely the brake shoe in that wheel is worn down to the rivets and those metal rivets are scraping on the drum. If you have a new brake shoe installed right away you will be ok. if you wait, you may also have to have the drums turned. By the way brake shoes come in pairs so they will change both front brake pads. Joe
The brake pad is worn down to the rivet that holds the pad to the base.
The metal rivets are in contact with the metal brake rotor.
Replace both front brake pads and at least one rotor.
You should be able to see both front rotors w/o removing the wheels.
The rotor with rings like Saturn (the planet) is the one to replace.
Replace soon before the other rotor meets the same fate.