Question about 2001 Chevrolet S-10

6 Answers

Door handles (in & Out) will not open the drivers door

I locked my keys in the car and did not a spare. A friend who has a recovery company used a slim jim to try and open my door but that didn't work. Once I got the door open on the other side, the outer handle on drivers side did not work but interior handle did. I took the door apart and found a little tan clip had come off of the rod running from the lock mechanism down to the latch mechanism where the rods from the handles meet. I fixed that and the door worked fine that night. When I went to go to work the next morning I could not open drivers door from either handle. Now I can't even get my door open to tear the panels off to see what is going on. Is there anyway to get the door open if the exterior & interior handles will not opent he door???

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  • Chevrolet Master
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One of the tabs or the springs had gone, you need to remove panel again ad fix it out.

Contact seller below to find part numbers, and eventually replace the missing part:

Auto Parts - Car Parts

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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01: These are the new items that we received from Zip Products: New lock rods, handle rods, grommets, clips, retainers, outside handle, handle and lock gaskets and the handle rod pin. You will also need some standard hand tools, degreaser or mineral spirits, lubricating grease and one afternoon.
02: Start by disconnecting the battery. Remember the door will be open for sometime. Now remove the window, lock, inside door handle and assist strap. Then carefully remove the door panel.
03: We needed to replace the outside handle so we carefully removed the handle rod retaining clip, unscrewed the retaining nuts and pulled the handle out of the door.
04: You will remove the door lock rod from the door latch mechanism. Start by removing the door lock rod retaining clips. Slide the clip up until you can pull the rod end out, then remove the clip.
05: Remove the upper door handle rod clip. This clip is different from the lock rod clip. It is clipped to the rod. Remove it and then remove the rod from the door latch mechanism.

06: All of the rods should be removed from the latch mechanism. Use a screwdriver and remove the three retaining screws on the door jamb. Now pull the latch mechanism out through the lower door access hole.
07: Thoroughly clean the latch mechanism in a cleaning solvent or degreaser. Mineral spirits works great. When it is clean and dry, check all of the working mechanisms for wear or sloppiness. If everything works correctly, lube all of the moving parts with white lithium grease or its equivalent. It is now ready for re-installation. If the door latch mechanism is worn, contact Zip. They have new ones available.
08: Remove the door lock cylinder retaining clip and then remove the cylinder. You can now thoroughly clean, polish and lube it before it is re-installed.
09: Now remove the door lock and door handle rods from the inside handle and remote. In this picture you can see what our problem was. The rod on the right had been repaired with a sleeve and lock nuts. This made the handle have to open too far and then flex the rod so the door would not open from the inside. The handle on the left is the new correct one sent by Zip. Sure is a big difference, isn’t there?
10: You are now ready to start the assembly. Install all of the slide-on retaining clips on their respective levers. This will make the assembly go much easier. Re-install the door latch mechanism into the door and tighten into place.
11: Next thoroughly lube all of the moving parts on the outside door handle. Now install the door handle rod onto the handle. 12: Slide the outside lock cylinder with a new gasket into place. Make sure the lever on the lock cylinder engages the door latch mechanism. Now push the door lock cylinder retaining clip into place. Make sure the key slot is facing the right position. You can install the lock upside down. When the lock is installed, carefully place the outside door handle with a new gasket into place. Connect the handle rod to the latch mechanism and tighten the handle into place.

13: Slide the rod grommets into place. One should be installed on each upper handle rod and the door lock rod. Spraying the grommets with a spray silicone will help them slide into place. These grommets are an anti-rattler. They will keep the rods from rattling against the door frame. 14: Now adjust the rods so that they line up with their respective levers. You will have to adjust each rod to fit. When you think they are right, put them into place and install their retaining clip. Now open the handle. It should open about 1/3 of it’s total movement and release the door latch. If it does not, adjust it until it does. Do the same with the outside handle. This is the most time consuming part of the whole project. Just take your time and keep adjusting. 15: Attach the lock rod to the door lock mechanism. Then totally lube the entire inside handle assembly with white lithium grease. Make sure that the door lock also works properly with the inside knob and the outside key.
16: When everything is adjusted properly, you can then re-install the door panel. If your door does not have an inside watershield to keep moisture out of the back of the door panel, you can easily make one. Open up a large garbage bag. Place 3M strip caulking or two-sided tape on the outer edge of the door. Place the garbage bag onto the caulking or tape and then trim off the excess. Now cut openings for the handle and window crank. There you have it. A perfect watershield.
17: Next re-install the door panel, assist strap and all of the handles and you are done. It is that easy. You can now exit your Corvette by just pulling on the door handle.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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Hello
Welcome to FixYa.

The best way to get the door open is to use the slim jim if you fo down from the out side between the glass abd weather strip to the door latch you can pull up on the latch to get open.
Once open with the door panel off you might have to replace the plastic clips that hold the rod to the latch.
Let me know if i can help more!
RD

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi there
It sounds like the "slim jim's" damaged the door, if you try it again on the passenger side door you could end up with the same result and will be very expensive to fix.
You have 2 options now, either break the window on the passenger side to gain access or call out a mobile mechanic who should be able to get into the car without breaking a window

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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Hacksaw and new drivers door panel!

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 13, 2009

    Accessing the shell cannot be accomplished without damaging the door panel when the door is closed.. There are (2) retaining pins located behind the part of the panel covered by the dashboard.

    To attempt with the least amount of damage, you must remove the driver seat.

    I suppose if you remove the seat, and only remove the rear 1/2 of the door panel, it may bend far enough to access the latching assembly.

    Good Luck

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 13, 2009

    Your question in the free forum is for a Suburban. This ? is for a s-10.

    Whioch is it?

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jan 13, 2009

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  • Chevrolet Master
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The door panel can be removed from the inside to access the lock rod that the slim jim knocked off, it is a bitc.. but it can be done.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jan 13, 2009

    here is the full door removal procedure, please rate my solution.

    First you have to remove the window crank.(If u have manual windows) The crank is held onto the shaft by a “retaining ring”, a “U” shaped spring that fits into a groove in the handle and holds it to the shaft. You can use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the crank away from the door panel to access the ring. You will need a retaining ring pliers to remove the spring or you can be creative and find a tool that is thin with a right angle or L shaped tip that can slip between the spring and the shaft and then pull up to remove the spring. You can buy the pliers, which I recommend, about $20 at auto parts store, but I found a suitable tool in my toolbox. Some paint can openers might work so be creative. Be careful, because the spring is small and will “jump” off the shaft so don’t lose it.(I did this on a concrete drive so that I could find the spring more easily).
    Once the spring is removed, the crank handle slides right off. Next, look down into the bottom of the “pull handle” of the arm rest and you will see a long narrow plastic cap. Pry this loose to reveal two 7 mm screw heads. Remove these. Now, look at the door handle to see a triangular shaped hard plastic piece of trim behind the handle. Remove the Phillips head screw behind the handle then place a flat screwdriver or putty knife between the edge of the trim and the soft door panel and carefully pry this from the top and bottom. This is actually two pieces held together with adhesive, and when the larger piece is free from the door panel, you can carefully remove the inset inner piece using the same technique. It is a little awkward but the inner piece can be pushed from behind or pried with a thin blade. There is a tab holding the front of this piece on to the outer trim piece so push the rear out first and then the front will come out. Now remove both pieces of trim.
    There are plastic “prongs” around the edges of the door panel that hold it in place. Insert a flat screwdriver or putty knife between the panel and the metal door at the lower right corner. Slide it near the prong and pry it straight our. Repeat this at each prong.(I think there are 4 on the hinge side and three on the lock side). The door panel is also “lipped over” the window frame at the top, so push the panel up, while holding it out enough to clear the handle. A few taps and it should be free.
    Installation is basically the reverse. Caution. When reassembling the plastic trim behind the handle, you must engage the sliding lock on the inner trim piece with the metal linkage rod that controls the lock. To do this, slide the lock forward toward the hinges and the linkage backwards, toward the open side of the door. Slide the “tab” under the outer trim and push the inner trim with the lock receiver over the linkage. Once it is pushed into place, slide the lock backward while holding the trim in place to engage with the linkage. Try the lock and see if it works before you reinstall the screw. I had to use a screwdriver between the inner and out trim pieces to “adjust” the linkage so it would connect with the receiver.
    Reinstalling the window crank can be a little tricky. I pushed the spring over the handle groove enough so that it stayed on but not enough to fully enter the grooves. Then I pushed the handle, with a little tap and a lot of luck onto the shaft and the spring popped into place the first time. I believe the retaining ring pliers would make the removal and installation straightforward and less frustrating.

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