Question about 1998 Subaru Legacy

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98 legacy 2.5 engine surges while driving and rpms drop

When driving down the road the engine intermittently surges and check engine light (always on) becomes brighter. Occassionally the rpm meter will drop down to 0 rpm's while the engine is running and stay there for 3 to 5 seconds. Seems worse in the cold. Has a code for misfire on cylinder 3.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Speedometer died on 98 Outback Legacy

if you know what you are looking for, it is the speedometer cable. if you have a mechanical odometer, then it is just the cable that is connected in your instrument panel and connected to your transmission.

if you can replace that cable then that would solve your problem.

if you have an electronic odometer , then you have to find your sending unit which is also located in your transmission. but it would be more complicated to test if it is defective.

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drcool

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

SOURCE: misfire codes

I have a similar problem, engine management shows code P0327, knock sensor 1 dont know what that is.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: High revs and surges when driving.

The revving to 2000 then dropping the 1500 likely means that it is in "limp home" mode. When there is a serious problem, the car will put itself in this limited mode to avoid further damage, and to get itself back home without stalling (hence the name). Since it stalls, its likely that there is a serious problem with the fuel system, and the limp home mode will not help you any more since you keep driving it like that. 
As far as the problem goes, it could be just about anything. Almost positive it has to do with the fuel system, but could be so many different things.
Hope this helps!

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: common fault codes for subaru legacy

replace the coolant temperature sensor (2 pins)... im not sure but i think is brown...

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: 91 LEGACY STARTED RUNNING ROUGH

The cylinders are numbered as on the spark pack you changed. You might have done better putting the seafoam in the tank as an injector cleaner. Not sure why you changed so many parts, you seem to know how to get the codes from test connector lead hookup and the blink pattern. You might also want to check the fuel rail pressure and the crank and cam angle sensors. Before replacing the injector, swap the #4 injector with the adjacent one and see it the code moves with the injector or stays put. If the code stays on #4, then check the injector wiring, if it moves clean or replace the injector.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

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