Question about 1986 Toyota Pickup 4WD

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Front oil seal

I replaced thr front oil seal in my 1986 toyota pickup 4 whl drive 2.4 engine manual trans after i replace the crankshaft pulley i put all the parts back on ie;radiator shroud ect i start the engine and about a minute later the oil blows out and the seal pops out, there seems to be a gap between the seal and pulley, the pulley shaft has wear ridges on it someone said to put a carnkshaft sleeve to stop the leaking and keep the seal in place?

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  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    toyota previa leaking oil front by front pulley

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  • Contributor
  • 9 Answers

Look up LC Engineering on the web, they have what's called a seal saver, it's a sleeve that goes on the back of the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley, it has a real fine/shiny finish and it works really well.

I use them myself. HAWK

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

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Try using a factory seal (oem), the new seal is made thinner , so the lip of the seal is away from the groove. No doubt the new seal you are using is as thick as the old one.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

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  • Toyota Master
  • 1,861 Answers

They are right. The sleeve will seal against the crank seal. The ridges are what is letting the seal leak. I install sleeves quite often on older models, the success rate is pretty high.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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Front seal replacement


Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

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Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.

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2 Answers

Im leaking about a quart a day the motor is covere in oil not sure where its comeing from but think its the front seal


Are you sure it is leaking or burning it. First give the engine a good clean, then run it to see if it is leaking and from where. If it is leaking that amount then it should be easy to see.
If it is a front seal, I presume you mean the crankshaft, then you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley to get at it.

Sep 13, 2011 | 1986 Toyota Pickup 4WD

1 Answer

I need timing marks on 2.2 toyota camry 2000


1. Remove the fan and generator V belt:
tdisline_542.jpg

tdisline_543.jpg 2. TIMING CHAIN (2az-FE Engine):
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Hood Right-side front wheel Engine under covers Right-side fender apron seal Front exhaust pipe Engine moving control rod and bracket Right-side engine mounting stay and bracket Accessory drive belt Engine appearance cover Engine wire Alternator Power steering pump, leave the hoses connected Ignition coils Ventilation hoses Cylinder head cover Turn the crankshaft pulley to set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC compression. Align the groove on the pulley with the timing mark -0- on the front cover. Remove the crankshaft pulley as follows:
1. TMC made: Use Special Tool 09213-54015 to hold the pulley to loosen the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-50013 to remove the bolt and pulley.

2. TMMK made: Use Special Tool 09960-10010 to hold the pulley to remove the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-40011 to remove the crankshaft pulley
tdisline_544.jpg Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMC-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
tdisline_545.jpg

Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMMK-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

Remove or disconnect the following:
Crankshaft position sensor Lower oil pan No. 1 chain tensioner Accessory drive belt tensioner

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    Engine mounting insulators Right-side engine mounting bracket Stud bolt for the accessory drive belt tensioner from the block Front cover mounting bolts and nuts Front cover Crankshaft position sensor plate Timing chain tensioner slipper Timing chain vibration damper Timing chain Crankshaft timing sprocket
  • Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise by 90°, and align an adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.
    tdisline_546.jpg
  • Fig. Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump drive sprocket with the oil pump groove-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_551.jpg

    Fig. Insert a bar to lock the sprocket in position-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
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    Remove the bolt, chain tensioner and spring.

    Remove the chain tensioner, oil pump sprocket and No. 2 timing chain.

    To install:
    Set the crankshaft key into the left horizontal position. Turn the cutout of the drive shaft to the top

    tdisline_552.jpg

  • Fig. Align the crankshaft key and drive shaft cutout as shown for installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    Align the yellow colored links with the timing marks of the sprocket as shown in the illustration.

  • Insert the sprockets with chain to the crankshaft and oil pump shaft.
  • Temporarily tighten the oil pump driven sprocket with the nut.
  • Insert the damper spring into the adjusting hole, and install the chain tensioner plate with the nut. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
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  • Align the timing marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and bearing caps.
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    tdisline_554.jpg Fig. Set the crankshaft set key facing upward-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_555.jpg Fig. Align the marked link of the timing chain with crankshaft sprocket timing mark-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_556.jpg Fig. Tap the crankshaft sprocket in with Special Tool 09309-37010-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
    tdisline_557.jpg Fig. Align the marked links of the timing chain with the camshaft sprockets during installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

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    1 Answer

    My 1986 toyota Mr2 has a horrible synthetic oil leak. i believe its coming from the crankshaft pulley seal. can i take the crankshaft pulley off the engine without removing the engine from the car?


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    2 Answers

    Timing belt


    TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I
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    Removal
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    Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co

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    1 Answer

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    Hello,

    Yes, it's possible to change the seal after removing the balancer.
    If the balancer shows signs of scratching, wear at the place of the seal, change that part too!

    To remove the old seal, drill 2 small opposite holes in the seal flange ( there is metal in it ).
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    Push it back in place with a wooden piece ( drill a hole in the center for the crankshaft end )
    Grease the outher race of the balancer. This will help the seal come gently into place.

    Good luck!

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    1 Answer

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