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Subaru L Series Automatic- maybe gearbox problem

I own an automatic 1987 L series Subaru. Lately when it gets hot it loses the ability to drive as if the clutch is slipping. If it cools down it has been okay and driven. Yesterday it didn't do this after resting so I managed to get it over the rise by putting in neutral racing the engine and putting it into drive. Believe me this was the last resort. I had no choice as I was stuck on our bush track with no room for my wife's car to pass and a 200 metre drop off to the side and 2 kilometres from home. I got it over on to the flat stretch speeding up best I could in low gear. The sluggishness seemed to clear but I knew I was not going to get it up the final hill of 50 metres rise so left it. I need to either get it up to my workshop by towing or fixing it where it is. It also has been stalling a lot over the months at traffic lights and stop signs when I go to take off. I've been using the choke to overcome this problem.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: daewoo automatic gearbox slipping

i have the same promlems

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

freetek
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SOURCE: vw golf Mk3 VR6 gearbox/cooling system

I don't know where your leak is happening but I suspect the transmission fluid attacks rubber and may be leaking from the heater because of softened hoses.
I think the first move I would make is to buy a Haynes or Chilton service manual and spend some time researching how the transmission and cooling systems are related. The books are available at auto parts stores (or on line of course) and cost between $17-$30 US.  

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or

your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Audi Automatic gearbox

gears do not engage on audi a4

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

Testimonial: "If you don't have something useful to say, keep quite and leave it to people who actually care to help."

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: Auto light comes on when going up a hill or put foot down

The gearbox does on have a dip stick it has a filler plug up top and a two part drain plug on the bottom of the transmission.

What you do is once the engine is warm, with the engine running you remove the centre plug and is the gearboxs level is low nothing much will come out. Some will come out as the tube gets full from normal running. If it is high the excess will come out and will stop at the ring.

I had the same problem with my gear box. What I did was remove the tube plug and drain all the oil out of the transmission. You then fill it with 3.5 litres of "Type D" transmission oil. Nothing else. Not Dextron anything or their equivalent.

In effect you have just carried out an transmission service.

I didn't even bother checking the oil level as 3.5 litres is the amount you need to put in and the gearbox has been running perfect ever since. The new oil worked a treat. Snappy changes and the clunking change with the light on stupidity went away.

Posted on May 29, 2010

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