Question about 2008 Land Rover Range Rover Sport
To change fuse for electric seat
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
reset service light. The SIA information is stored in the instrument cluster EEPROM and can only be reset by using T4. (Dealer tool)
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
Never change your oil while the engine is hot! Let it cool for a few hours, oil can burn you badly.
Be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change. Level, solid ground is a must so that you can safely jack up your car. I also like to put something on the driveway or garage floor underneath the engine in case you spill. Cardboard or a piece of plywood are great for this.
Before you even start to do your oil change, be sure you have everything you need to get the job done.
What You'll Need
Before you remove the oil drain plug, be sure that your recycling container is positioned underneath the oil drain. An oil change can be no fun if most of your time is spent cleaning up oil. When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck.
Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.)
Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil -- most full service gas stations accept it.
Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess. Some oil filters can be reached from the top, but for most you'll have to be under the car.
With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it. Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil. Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on.
Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise. You don't need a wrench to install the new oil filter. Screw it on as tight as you can get it with one hand. Overtightening the oil filter can strip its threads and cause a leak. Of course, not tightening it enough can cause a leak. So screw it on as tight as it will go with one hand, but no more.
Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too. Check your owner's manual to find out how much oil your engine holds. Pour a little more than 3/4 that amount into the engine. For example, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil, add 3 1/2.
If you're using a 5-quart container of oil, there is a guide on the side that shows how much oil you've put in.
You're not finished yet so don't drive off.
We didn't add all the oil because there may still be a little oil here and there we didn't account for. Check your oil and add more until you're at the right level.
Be sure to put your oil cap back on! Oil spray can cause a fire.
Posted on Oct 29, 2010
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