Question about 1996 Mazda MX-5 Miata

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Throw out bearing stuck in miata mx5

Wouldn't shift so I started in gear to get home. After new master and slave and plenty of bleeding, find out it looks like the throw out bearing is stuck - probably from starting in gear?Lots of miles on old thorw out too. Any suggestions to un-stick the throw out bearing and see if it can still shift?

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  • Mazda Master
  • 4,350 Answers

Hi, The throw out bearing should not have been affected with anything that you have described.
Quick note about bleeding: Bench bleed the master cylinder, then never let it run dry.
Anyways, you seem to have too many things happening at once. I worry about the clutch itself. When they wear, travels of things line throwout bearings become excessive.
If by stuck you mean beyond fully extended, certainly a clutch.
If by stuck you mean it is released and will not engage, maybe not a clutch...Make sense?
Essentially, you need the clutch to work correctly, sometimes you just gotta rip it apart and redo it.

Posted on Dec 12, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: having some problems getting into

It may also be a symptom of a bad clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder or perhaps a leaking hose or connection. Whatever the case, the primary cause is the fact that the hydraulic pressure is not building enough to disengage the clutch fully.
Check the fluid levels and check thoroughly for any leaks then bleed the clutch hydraulic system if that doesn't improve performance then replace the master and the slave cylinder and rebleed the system. That should get you shifting smoothly again

Hope that helps..........

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 95 mazda b4000 slave cylinder bleeder valve location

the nipple sticks out side the bell housing on the left side just above your hydralic line for your clutch,auto zones web has a complete diagraham and steps for bleeding

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: How can I verify the transmission oil 1991 Miata MX5

If it is a whining sound, you may want to check the U joint.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

Mechanic65
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 97 miata w/ 5 speed. When I push in the

Yes you most likely have a bad throw out bearing. If you replace the bearing you would do yourself a favor and replace the clutch and pressure plate while you are there.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Miata running lean. CEL keeps throwing P0300.

INTAKE GASKET KIT WILL FIX IT

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

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I just finished putting on a new gear box and clutch kit for and when i started it and put it on gear it was so low and soft and a loud noise after that... I just want to know why did it do that pls?


So you installed a new transmission and a whole new clutch kit? Did the kit include the pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing and slave cylinder? Did you bleed the slave cylinder? The low and soft pedal is a clear sign that there is air in the hydraulic system. The loud noise after that tells me you're either grinding the gear trying to shift or there is a problem inside the transmission itself. If you installed everything correctly and torqued all the bolts correctly in the clutch assembly and transmission, then try bleeding the slave cylinder again, sometimes air gets trapped in the cylinder and it's hard to get out, If you let the clutch master cylinder run dry while you either had the clutch apart or while you were bleeding the clutch, then you have to start from scratch and re-bleed the whole system.

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Have someone push on the clutch pedal as you watch for movement of the clutch fork where the Slave cylinder attaches to the transmission. If the Fork moves then it is either bent or slipped off the throw-out bearing, the throw-out bearing is seized maybe, the clutch disk itself could be worn or the syncro-mesh teeth inside the transmission are worn from missing gears while shifting.

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The one item I would suspect is the through-out-bearing not completely disengaging the pressure plate from the fly wheel. If the vehicle is in neutral and you slowly depress the clutch and release it do hear a singing or whining sound? Since you cannot adjust the clutch any more the through-out-bearing is the component which moves the pressure plate from the fly wheel to stop the power from the engine to the transmission. It is difficult to shift when the engine is on because the fly wheel is still engaged and powering your transmission.

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Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck

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