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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: new heater core not hot
If your radiator is not clogged, your thermostat is working, and you have a new heater core, it sounds like when your mechanic was installing your heater core, that he possibly pulled a vacuum line loose or forgot to hook one back up. On most all late model vehicles, heater controls are vacuum operated. One line to move the selector flap from vent to floor to defrost, etc., and one line to move the heat flap from hot to cold. Most vehicle manufacturers changed from mechanical controls to vacuum operated controls to try to simpify the system and have less parts to have to replace. However the set-back with this is that when a vacuum line comes loose, it can be harder to locate your problem whereas a mechanical issue would obviously be right behind the controls inside the dash. If your problem is vacuum related, you can most likely assume that the problem will be somewhere under the dash, as that is where those particular vacuum lines should be routed, and also is what the mechanic had to disassemble when replacing your heater core.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
You most likely have air in the cooling system.You would need to bleed the cooling system of air.There should have bleed screws near water neck,or thermostat.Do this cold.Remove the radiator cap and fill full.Then start the engine and loosen the screws and watch for nothing but coolant to flow out(no air or bubbles).When you are sure the air is gone out of the cooling system,shut the bleeder screw off,and fill radiator up and test to see that engine runs cool,and you have heat at all speeds and rpm s.The electric cooling fan should come on at a tempuratue of about 215 or so.But just as important,the cooling fan should cut off at a lower tempurature.If the cooling fan does not do this,you still have air in the system.If you can not get the air out this way,then do this.Remove the radiator cap and reservoir cap and fill them both up full.The reservoir needs to be over the fill mark a good deal.Replace the caps.Start the engine with ac and heat off.Let it run until the engine gets to about 212 or 215 degrees and shut the engine off.Wait about 30 minutes and check the reservoir to see if the coolant has dropped.It should have dropped.If the reservoir has dropped or not ,do this again and again untill the reservoir drops in coolant level,and engine temp is good(fan goes on and goes off).Remember to refill the reservoir as needed as it drops,not to run out of coolant.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 ford taurus no heat in car
This is a common problem, Ford garage will charge you about 1000.00 to fix it. It's an all day job for someone who knows what they're doing. I wouldn't recommend this if you aren't familiar with cars. If you still want to go at it, get a book for your car, you will like that much better. It has pictures!
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Rick here:This is what I thought.We removed it and tied it open.Still no heat.160 going in and 157 coming out.Something is screwy in the box.Any ideas"
I don't know your vehicle, but does it have a blower door tucked in where the heater core is? If it DOES and that's broken then it could be the whole problem. It would mean it isn't switching from the A/C side of things to the heat side of them. Hope this helps, good luck! Also, just looked up the proper name for what I'm talking about, it's called a "blend door" and I think your car has one. It's what I would check, again, good luck!
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
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