Question about Cars & Trucks
Fan is working fine and water pump is almost new, but after I sent it to the new mechanic to change the fuel pump, now the fuel gauge is moving up and down and the temperature is fluctuating a lot
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a temperature sensor likely to be on your radiator. Make sure the connection is plugged in. Sometimes un-plugging and plugging it back will correct the issue. If not, you'll have to have some check if the sensor is faultly or if the electric wire is fault. You can check your fuse box. I don't think it's a fuse because other things on your instrument cluster would also not work.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
There is an air pocket in the coolant (upper engine underneath the manifold). Some GM manifolds have a defective design that allows the coolant to leak from underneath the throttle body assembly inside the manifold. This can contaminate oil (check for caramel milkshake color on dipstick), and cause air pockets to form underneath the sensor---thus the erratic signal.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
take the cap off of the radiator (whil engine is cold) start and run the vehicle. keep runnig 30mins after the vehicle is hot keeping notice of the rad fluid level.
keeping the cap off will prevent the pressure build up that woiuld keep the air in the system, keep adding water or antifreeze as the level goes down. this may take an hour or so.
also with the cap off, you will be able to see if your water pump is operating correctly. you will visibly be able to see movement in the rad when the pum is engaged.
Posted on May 26, 2009
That sounds like the classic symptoms of a cracked ECTS (temperature sensor). It is located on the head near the upper radiator hose and battery. You will see two wires (likely a yellow and a black) going to a small sensor hiding in a little cubby hole. If you pull off the connector (there are two points that if you squeeze it lets the connector come off) you will probably see that the connector is corroded because the plastic body of the original ECTS cracked and let a small amount of coolant into the connector. The ECTS is only about a $10-15 part, be sure to get the updated one with a brass body. Then the hard part is you will likely need to get a new connector, one of the best places for that is a junk yard, the temp sensor for the transmission and the air temperature sensor near the air filter use the same connector. When putting this in be sure to solder the connections and cover that with heat shrink tubing. There are video's from Richpin06A on youtube that will show you how if you have any doubts. The saturnfans forum is a great place for info too,
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
It sounds like you have air in the Cooling system and the bars leak permanent seal does not help. The sealer creates restrictions through out the water jackets and can cause the thermostat to stick. Replace the radiator cap and run the truck with the radiator cap on the first click and keep an eye on the over flow tank, refill the over flow as needed and make sure you have the heater on the highest setting to work out all the air in the system. Once all the air has worked it's way out of the system, then you can close the radiator cap to the second click to ensure full pressure is built up in your cooling system. Good luck and keep me posted.
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
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