Factory struts and spring seats (rear) should be getting a little soupy by this time, so you\'ll have a little "float" in the ride going over uneven pavement. I just pulled mine out, turned them upside down and execised the rod up and down to expel the air, and they\'re back to as-new...and old, old shock absorber trick. Save for oil and filter and air filter changes, there\'s not much to do maintenance-wise on these cars, and they\'re quite reliable. Maintenance headache: checking battery electrolyte on these...the battery\'s in the subframe rail in front of the left front wheel...not a big job, just a pain. I check mine twice a year.
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Re: 2008 Dodge Avenger SE
Here is from the chrysler service contract manual
for all dodge 2008
oil change oil filter change rotate tires lubricate front drive shaft fitting (2500 or 3500 4X4 models only) check spare tire for proper pressure and correct storage lubricate outer tie rod ends (2500 or 3500 4X4 models only) inspect engine air cleaner filter, replace as necessary
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I have the same problem with my Dodge Avenger. The issue is with the heater core. The company that made the heater cores for Dodge that year put to much flux in it. The flux comes loose and you get a sludge build up in the heater core that drops to the bottom of it. The heat for the passenger side blows on the bottom of the heater core. So that is why the air is cool on that side. Solution: you can try flushing the the system. If you take the cap off the coolant reservoir you will see the sludge build up. It has a reddish tint to it. Hope this helps.
If your 2008 Avenger is set up like the Breeze, Cirrus, Stratus, or Sebring that it evolved from (and I don't see why they would change a successful platform), when you are facing the car the engine is on the left and the transmission is on the right (driver's side). The transmission dipstick should be the one between the engine and the transmission near the center of the engine compartment. When you pull the transmission dipstick, it should say something about the type of fluid required, and under what conditions to check the fluid level (usually on a level surface at normal operating temperature while in park). Add fluid if needed, and be VERY careful not to overfill as newer transmissions are very sensitive to fluid levels. Going as little as a couple of ounces over can adversely affect transmission performance and longevity. By the way, I strongly recommend changing your filter and fluid every 24,000 miles to keep from having to replace the transmission at arround 130,000 miles. The Mitsubishi transmission in my Eagle Vision (same as a Dodge Intrepid) disintegrated at around 137,000 miles and cost me $1380 to replace. Regular maintenance by the prior owner would have saved me that expense.
Just because the bulbs look fine, doesn't mean they are. Start with the bulb replacement. If this doesn't solve it, and it has under 36K, it should still be under factory warranty. Shouldn't cost anywhere near $200 either way.
Remove plastic cover on top of engine, just pull on each corner for it is friction fit.
Once removed you will see 4 black spark plug covers with one hex type screw holding each.
Remove Hex screw and place aside, pull upward to remove plug boot from plug.
To remove the plug, use a 5/8 socket with a 6" extension. Once plug has been turned out all the way and you cannot get the plug up and out of the hole, just press the plug boot back on the plug and pull it back up.
Gap and replace 4 plugs with the same or equavalent type,. Drop plug down the hole and use socket to align and tighten until just snug, then torque to manufactures specifications.
i also have a 2008 avenger rt.its o good thing your car is under warranty it is must likely the turn multifunction switch.which controls a lot of stuff light turn signals brights. i hope this helped please rate this answer thanks.